Jump to content
SAU Community

Next Project? E36 M3, E46 M3, R34 Gtr?


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I dunno, the bolt on low boost supercharger kits for the E46 are high up there in the desirable and cool list. They are banshees to start with, throw the high pitch wine of the supercharger at at it and its a good way to get a punch 250rwkws. I know the E46 would be my clear pick...

I agree mate, this is awesome!

I agree mate, this is awesome!

This is exactly what I had in mind for an E46 and seeing this clip again just now, makes me think thats where I am heading!!!!

AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!

It makes a raspy shit exhaust note even worse IMO.

The E46 & Nice sounding exhausts are two things that never go together. Sounds crap.

hahaha... that's so true. 100% agree with the shit exhaust note. I'd still have one though :)

Ok, they might be an acquired sound but I have always loved the sound of an M3 being planted!! Its a very different sound to the RB26 so we have certainly been spoilt with the sound of an RB on full throttle:)

Horses for Courses:)

I have decided to begin prepping my car for sale and also begin some pro active research on all 3 cars so that when the time is right, if I decide to purchase I will be ready and if I decide to keep the 33, then I will have an immaculate base to enjoy my build up:)

Probably put my car up For Sale in approx 2 months and I know the GTRs dont sell over night:(

GTR's will sell - IF you price them appropriately.

Is it honestly worth putting the extra 3-4k on the price tag and fk'ing around for 4-6 months of idiots & time wasters?

Nope.

Put it up for whatever you'll realistically move it for and it wont take long to sell.

There are too many dreamer owners out there that thing thier car is worth pallet of gold these days - when it simply aint gonna happen!

Thanks Chan, I will get a 6sp as I love manual cars and the experience of driving.

What do you guys think of Evo 8/9 and Clubsport R8s or FPV GT-P?? Should I be putting these into the equation, I think the HSV and FPV maybe a little big, but thought the Evo might be a good option. Thoughts??

Cheers

I owned skylines and evos before as well. I had an Evo 9 which had 240kw at all 4 wheels. As a daily driver, it is quite a 'raw' car if you know what i mean. The interior is all plastics and in terms of worksmanship, i think an R34 interior is way better.

Turning circle for the evo is a bitch. So if you want to do a U-turn in the city, be prepared to take up the whole road.

IMO, the evo is not good as a daily driver although many people do use them as their daily. As a weekend/track car, go for the evo. With minimal mods, it will be flying around the track.

I know its not on your list but what about a v36 skyline. Handles great, great engine they make supercharger/ turbo kits for it, luxury..

or a 335I OR a new 1 series twin turbo.

Just some ideas..

Edited by 99 GTT
GTR's will sell - IF you price them appropriately.

Is it honestly worth putting the extra 3-4k on the price tag and fk'ing around for 4-6 months of idiots & time wasters?

Nope.

Put it up for whatever you'll realistically move it for and it wont take long to sell.

There are too many dreamer owners out there that thing thier car is worth pallet of gold these days - when it simply aint gonna happen!

Couldnt agree more R31Nismoid. I will be getting my car looking great, with all the little GTR things fixed, so that when a buyer comes to look at my car it is the best car in the price range ($23-26K most likely).

V36 just dont do it for me and I think the 335i and the 135i might be a little out of my price range unfortunately.

Thought the Evo might be a little raw for a DD, hence the want to go to an M3.

Cheers Guys.

If you buy an M3 and add S/C, I'll promise you it will owe more than a 135i by the time you have the M3 finished and reliable, and stopping! (they need brakes).

Get a 12 month old 135, quick ECU reflash, bye bye M3.

If you buy an M3 and add S/C, I'll promise you it will owe more than a 135i by the time you have the M3 finished and reliable, and stopping! (they need brakes).

Get a 12 month old 135, quick ECU reflash, bye bye M3.

Thanks Marlin, I didnt even think of these to be honest, will have to have a test drive of these as well and see how they fit:)

dude i would probably got the E46 although r34 is really tempting, saw a supercharged E46 fly the other night :)

I think it comes down to if you want the "classy" or "race jap" look. Advantage of an e46 is that cops are attracted to them like a skyline.

personally i like the e36 just cause its cheaper but it just looks a bit to old and there are to many 318 and 325 mock ups that makes the M3 not as appealing.

Yeh I will begin the test driving this week. I must admit to thinking of adding a few different cars in there, Clubsport, FPV GT and even the new Golf GTI.

Just want to see a range of cars so I can best get an idea of what I want.

I will keep you all posted on the test drives:)

Yeh I will begin the test driving this week. I must admit to thinking of adding a few different cars in there, Clubsport, FPV GT and even the new Golf GTI.

Just want to see a range of cars so I can best get an idea of what I want.

I will keep you all posted on the test drives:)

Golf R is coming... up-speced golfV GTI motor instead of the newer gen motor, R32 awd, less of a lead arrow than the R32... should be awesome.

Hi.

I got a e46 M3 aswell as a couple of GTR's and to be totally honest with you the Gtr's shit on the M3.

Mines a 2005 6 speed coupe and i've been whipped by a few Wrx's lol.

Mine has a Remus exhaust, extractors, Mspeed ecu and CAI.

Defiantly slower than my stock R33 GTR. Abit more responsive than the Gtr's but they run out of puff after 100km/h or so.

I own several cars and time after time i end up going back to my R32 GTR. Best car i've owned in my opinion.

So an unbiased opinion.. go the R34 GTR if you must or just stick to your R33. There really not that expensive to mod if you look around and do it right mods first time you can basically get 300kw with just a few mods unopened.

What area are you in?? Wouldn't mind giving you a test drive of my M3.

I'm selling the M3 for $55k but i reckon don't bother, Their just a boulivard/cruiser car and overrated in my opinion.

Candy, I appreciate your offer and I have PM'd you as I would love to have a run in E46 as well as talk mods for the GTR.

Let me know what you think and thanks again!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...