Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What date exactly is the deposit due?
The total cost for the day will be $200 PLUS an extra $25 if you don't have a CAMS license because you WILL need one. Application is available on the day so there's no worries there, just make sure you have the green stuff in hand :happy: Spots are first for SAUSA members, then the rest to the general public so join up if you aren't one, it's only $45. Deposits will be needed as we need to secure the track, this will be half of the full amount (so $100) and will need to be payable by March 1st. The remainder must come in the following weeks.

BTW - Can I get some official notification that my full payment of $200 made on January 15, 2010, was received?

  • Replies 846
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

BTW - Can I get some official notification that my full payment of $200 made on January 15, 2010, was received?

Did you pay via direct debit David? I'm going to the bank tomorrow for a printed statement, so I'll reconcile your payment and confirm with Luke.

That goes for everyone else. If you paid via direct debit with your username as reference, I'll pick it up.

:happy:

Was just about to PM you about that Ruby but you saved me the hassle :P Let me know who's paid and who hasn't and I'll update this thread

There's me for starters $100 deposit. I'll update you on the rest tomorrow.

:)

Luke,

Got the statement today. I'll scan thru it after work and give you the list.

BTW - Can I get some official notification that my full payment of $200 made on January 15, 2010, was received?

David,

I can confirm your full payment of $200 has been received. :D

Hi,

paid in full today, the reference is 0402565077 because

the bank lady said i couldn't put a letters as a reference?

Cheers Bengi

No worries mate. I'll match your payment and mark your full payment on the list.

:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...