Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 246
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

no worries at all. Everything has been put back because it was confirmed this morning that my welder parts went to Mexico.....yes MEXICO!!!!!!!

Anyway, it might tie in nicely because I have a car coming down shortly that you may have some work from which you can take a look at while I teach you how to weld LOL....just messing with ya!

Yeah when I drop my car off to ariel, ill get him to weld some dash fittings to the rocker covers then if you wanna take the rocker covers, exhaust manifold, dump and rear turbo housing, Craved, and throw some of your coatings on them that would work out good!

Yeah when I drop my car off to ariel, ill get him to weld some dash fittings to the rocker covers then if you wanna take the rocker covers, exhaust manifold, dump and rear turbo housing, Craved, and throw some of your coatings on them that would work out good!

No worries Joel

let me know when you are going to take the car over to Ariel and we'll tee something up.

  • 3 weeks later...

Finally a bit of an update....have been flat out getting back on track after the purchase of a new welder. Only the surge tank and turbo flange have been done with the new welder.

Apart from plenums for 4G63, RB20, RB20 (in matt black shades.gif ) , RB30, SR20, G200 I thought I would post up some pics of the kind of work there seems to be a bit of a demand for. The plenums aren't slowing down, I just put the word out there that I can do this kind of work and people seem to catch on.

Turbo Suzuki Swift GTI - weld exhaust manifold, weld fuel lines, build radiator end tanks and mounts as well as modified radiator support to mount it & intercooler piping

image234.png

image109.png

image099.png

image094.png

image044-1.png

Intercooler for VL Turbo - it's one massive mofo

image009-1.png

image014-1.png

image079.png

image084.png

Welding of new new t3 flange to chinese exhaust manifold

image009-3.png

Twin 044 fuel pump undercar surge tank for VL circuit car - coming soon for R32's :thumb:

image104.png

image089.png

image084-1.png

image049.png

To keep this thread going, I will have pics of the plenum work I have done recently over the weekend since they are being finalised for delivery.

Happy Welding,

Ariel

I have a CA18DET 1200 ute being towed up here from Canberra this coming week, you can bring your car up after that if you like :thumbsup: and then an R31 (don't worry Joel, I thought I would squeeze it on before your car tunrs up :whistling:

Edited by ISL33P

Dam.....what does it need to get running? Can I help out with it if it comes here?

Junkey (has a quite giggle) - you mean the end tanks for radiators and intercoolers? If so, no. Just measure them, draw it on the sheet and cut away

you "could":nyaanyaa: I am going down to Canberra either this coming week or next week to check out another job so I might aswell come past and have a look at it and see how much i can do with some "templates" maybe enought to get it driving. If you like, pm me your number and I will give you a call when I am heading down

I will be making one for the 32's as soon as I get mine back.

26 plenum is coming along, a little slower than expected but I will definitely have one installed in a car within a month and that's when the first pics will come out :banana:

Considering the inside size of the flange was similar and honestly the customer actually didn't give a sh1t since it is for a junker, he wasn't fussed.

There was absolutely no warping, not when you weld it I like I do :)

Considering the inside size of the flange was similar and honestly the customer actually didn't give a sh1t since it is for a junker, he wasn't fussed.

There was absolutely no warping, not when you weld it I like I do :)

Haha fair enough mate was just curious cause I need to do the same thing to one of my manifolds cause my turbo is t2 not t3 so really just after a second opinion of some that has been there before

I have a CA18DET 1200 ute being towed up here from Canberra this coming week, you can bring your car up after that if you like :thumbsup: and then an R31 (don't worry Joel, I thought I would squeeze it on before your car tunrs up :whistling:

Haha no rush for mine man, dont wait up for me!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...