Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found a link to the Nismo pads at what looks like a reasonable price: http://www.nismoshop.com/servlet/the-767/NISMO-REAR-BRAKE-PADS/Detail

Fleabay only has fronts and they're dearer :(

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My fleabuy of Brembo calipers turned up from the US on the 5th. The rotors that were shipped are lost in transit. Lucky they are insured so I should get back the money. The calipers came with the lines and bolts too. Just need time to install all my goodies :wacko:

I found a link to the Nismo pads at what looks like a reasonable price: http://www.nismoshop.com/servlet/the-767/NISMO-REAR-BRAKE-PADS/Detail

Fleabay only has fronts and they're dearer :(

Nice find.

Funny how the US Nismo have items that the Japanese Nismo don't carry.

Got my RDA slotted rotors today.

I Ordered them over the phone from GSL Rallysport (in QLD) and they rocked up at my office (in Adelaide) a couple of hours later!

I have never heard of delivery so fast. I have had meals at Restaurants take longer than that! Unbelievable!!!!!

Just waiting for the HPX pads now. Can't wait to get them in

I was thinking of painting my calipers pink. will that be cool?

Got my RDA slotted rotors today.

I Ordered them over the phone from GSL Rallysport (in QLD) and they rocked up at my office (in Adelaide) a couple of hours later!

I have never heard of delivery so fast. I have had meals at Restaurants take longer than that! Unbelievable!!!!!

Just waiting for the HPX pads now. Can't wait to get them in

I was thinking of painting my calipers pink. will that be cool?

Depends really; nipple pink, or dog dick pink?

Just waiting for the HPX pads now. Can't wait to get them in

I was thinking of painting my calipers pink. will that be cool?

Bout as cool as the beat up VL commo I saw yesterday dragging on the ground with VE commo wheels and "SEX SPEC Motor sports" sticker obscuring the whole back window...

:yucky:

Bout as cool as the beat up VL commo I saw yesterday dragging on the ground with VE commo wheels and "SEX SPEC Motor sports" sticker obscuring the whole back window...

:yucky:

You Sydney residents are a different breed...

I think I've decided on the Nismo S-Tune pads for now, and upgrade the rotors when they're knackered to slotted ones. I'll probably upgrade calipers at the next pad change. Sounds like that should be fine for my current driving.

I Ordered them over the phone from GSL Rallysport (in QLD) and they rocked up at my office (in Adelaide) a couple of hours later!

I have never heard of delivery so fast. I have had meals at Restaurants take longer than that! Unbelievable!!!!!

When the system works, it works well! ;)

thought ide move it here.

did a quick search on this thread but couldnt find it.

im sure someone could possible tell me what bolts I should be asking for - to bolt the GTR32 Calipers on?

grade ?

I think its a 12mm M12 thread>??

how long do I need?

thought ide move it here.

did a quick search on this thread but couldnt find it.

im sure someone could possible tell me what bolts I should be asking for - to bolt the GTR32 Calipers on?

grade ?

I think its a 12mm M12 thread>??

how long do I need?

As per my other reply, go buy them from Nissan, they are the correct material grade, and are shouldered to the right length. Most engineers will require it. Either that or drill & tap the caliper legs to M14x 1.25mm (I think) and use the factory Stagea bolts.

Aaron,

Make sure if you don't buy it from Nissan, you buy at least grade 8.8. Also make sure you get the right length.. The requirement is to see some thread coming through the other side and use Loctite (minimum 243)

Stainless bolts don't have the tensile strength, so don't use stainless anywhere near things that hold brake callipers onto struts/A-arms.

Remember, this is a safety system, so please be careful!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...