Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That combo looks good TK80

never really heard of manley rods who makes them ?

Manley are a very old established and trusted name in the high performance world.

Been around forever, Or as long as I can recall and thats longer than most on here. :rolleyes:

  • 1 month later...

just a quick question about this kit,

would this 2.8 step zero kit run 2530s with a power output of say 380 - 400 rwkw retain the same sort of response of say a built 2.6 running gtsss with 330 - 350 rwkw?, (same supporting mods)

im just guessing but it should acheive 380 - 400rwkw with 2530s right?

but are 2530s with that amount of power useless with the rev limiter set at 7500-7800 for reliability sake as hks have recomended?

just interested to know if a 2.8ltr with 2530s can be built to out perform a 2.6 with gtsss in any and all areas . (mainly response)

also beer baron, what are the prices involved in sending a whole built motor to australia from japan if you dont mind me asking.

thanks

Edited by M.C Ren

it's not going to be quite as responsive as a 2.6 with GTSS. 2.8s are good but they are not magic. 2530s are quite a bit bigger. it will certainly out perform it off boost but in the midrange from say 3,000 to 4,5000 the GTSS 2.6 will be faster, but everywhere else the 2.8 with 2530s will be better. from 4,500 up the 2530 2.8 will be piling on the power.

cost of shipping an engine depends how you do it. if you just want to send consolidated cargo expect about $500 for freight and about $400 in port costs/charges/AQIS/clearance costs. otherwise you can share space in a container with someone, or you can send it via TNT etc. I'd say around $800 is reasonable for an engine.

thanks for that, 8-900 on shiping isnt too bad considering as you said the workshops up there can throw one together fairly quickly and save some cash on labor, to source parts seems like it would be much easier too, cheaper parts and quite exciting at the same time. all i need is the time to spend over there, the money and a ticket hehe, maybe sometime down the track, untill then, might have to keep it local...

i cant wait to see what this 2.8 with gtss goes like, how is it coming along blitz

hehe yeah its been my nickname for years, im not looking at this moment but i have sent my car to ben before, it was on my last car and has been over 5 years now but i would definatly go there again,

it was more out of interest as it has always been a dream of mine to do what the beer baron has done. one day... but if something does go wrong, your %100 right

yeah agreed even if you have the most understanding and helpful workshop in japan if you get the engine here, isntal it and something aint right you are pretty much on your own. even just purely because sending the thing back and forth would negate any 'warranty' saving anyway. so yeah you need to have your eyes open. I've done a couple now where I had them built in japan and then shipped out here and I've also done 3 cars of mine where I had the engine built and then installed AND tuned in the car in japan (which is a safer way) and then imported the cars complete (2 X GTRs and 1 RX7).

would I do it again? yeah for sure. but there are plenty of good local options these days. it was just convenient in my situation that's all.

  • 5 years later...

Hi guys, sorry for waking this thread up.

Any news on the HKS Step Zero build? Any success story? 

The Japanses have been using it, reaching 600-630ps with no issues from what I have read. However, nobody commented on the reliability and durability of the kit. I have the kit at home, together with a new N1 block. However, I'm very hesitant at the moment and trying to see people opinion, those who have used/driven the kit. The price of the new N1 block is doubled now, + I don't want issues later on, although I'm looking for 550-600 at the hub only. 

Appeeciae your feedback.

Ali

Speak to Anthony Maatouk of Maatouks Racing - I believe one of the GTR's in his stable is/was running HKS Step Zero

or maybe it was Jim from CRD. Cant remember but it was one of them :(

Edited by Sinista32
update
  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

Using  step zero in Bangkok ,Thailland , high Boost 2.1 bar with 734 whp /830nm. On e85 with Garrett gtx 3582 ( low boost @1.5 bar ,not sure for whp)

trackday (low boost) once a year for 3 yrs . Street use 3 days a week.(mostly low boost ) with no issues ,but my engineer told me last time (2 day ago )that may be this year I should consider to check everything because the engine sound is “different “ from the beginning .

for me , this step zero is totally worth for money .

 

4E93E7C0-674B-469A-A871-33A8B2484C2D.jpeg

93A309D2-5289-420B-BEFA-0C379DE986DF.jpeg

 

7603B170-3C70-4973-A59F-42A70AFF7681.jpeg

Edited by bnr34stepzero_Thai
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...