Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Found a tiny chip/crack in my windscreen today no bigger than a 5 cent coin. I've seen those ads on tv about the O'brian glass repairs, where they use that gel or whatever to fix it. Has anyone ever used them and are they any good or what? Any feedback would be appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305803-obrian-glass-repairs/
Share on other sites

yep they are and reasonably priced

Hmm, there windscreens are super expensive, I hope there repairs are more reasonably priced.

I used Jim's windscreens last time and that was the only place that gave a reasonable price for a new windscreen, not sure if they do repairs though...

Why bother, new wind screen is between 150 and 300 dollars :S. Good idea to replace them anyway but especially after a chip.

Can you buy an new replacement windscreen for a 32 with the metal loop for the aerial on it? Good excuse to try and retain the factory windscreen.

Can you buy an new replacement windscreen for a 32 with the metal loop for the aerial on it? Good excuse to try and retain the factory windscreen.

the inbuilt antenna windscreens cost a lot more than your average windscreens. Like $600+ brand new. Also windscreen seals from nissan are another $300~ a pop. Unless you want to fit chunky generic ones. To get it looking as it was from factory, it will cost prob close to $800 or fill the chip in for $90 :)

Hey that's a great deal. Where did you have that done?

Yeah, it's pretty good, I called around like 5 stores and they all quoted me around $275-295.

Anyway, the place is called Roy Windscreens.

44 Claredale Road, Dandenong.

I use capital autoglass got some cards floating around here, i'll post up a number if I remember at home. He can supply windscreens with aerials and he mentioned a number around 450 but i'm not certain whether that is just glass or plus labor etc etc. It is nice to retain the antenna I agree :worship:.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...