Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...
  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

You're all homo and stuff.

Yeah I remember that car. Two tone gold and silver R32 GTS4 with an RB26 conversion. Havn't seen it for atleast two years now.

got painted, motor went bang a couple times, got fixed and as far as I last heard, was never driven because it popped something every time it moved more than 10 feet.

someone should come and take the front bar off my gtr (and leave it at my house.....) so I can work out size for oil cooler

Hey guys just joined, Bought my first skyline so will be around on here a fair bit for tips and help.... She is a bit sick and in need of a bit of love but hopefully have her running alright in the next few months. Any one know the best places to get work done let me know, am going to be taking her into extreme MS today a mate has told me to go in there

Hey Phil, I need to ask from your vast knowledge about the HEL products if you have any photos of the sandwhich plate that came with your oil cooler kit

I've been shafted big time by them as it looks like I've just been sent a generic sandwhich plate, and theres a nice big dint (nearly a hole) in my oil cooler because they didnt put in packing in the box and all the brackets rolled around and F#@#ed $hit up. And better still they don't want to replace it insisting that it shouldn't leak and will be fine

The sandwhich plate I have has no thermostat as far as I can see and that was the big selling point of the HEL kit, and it is definently advertised as having one.

Looking through your old thread now but thought you might have some good photos anyway

So thats my rant, hows Townsville treating everyone :)

haha

EDIT: Heres the damage that they think "Should be O.K". Regardless of that its pretty poor that they wont replace it with this type of damage on it brand new:

Resampled_2012-11-05_18-28-32_765.jpg

Edited by 89CAL

^^depends what your after and how deep your pockets are.

frsport i get a few things through or if your after stuff from japan go through jessestreeter.com

goodluck finding a decent workshop in townsville

cal- i'd be asking for a refund or another core. have you tested it with water to if it leaks?

Edited by robbo_rb180

^^depends what your after and how deep your pockets are.

frsport i get a few things through or if your after stuff from japan go through jessestreeter.com

goodluck finding a decent workshop in townsville

cal- i'd be asking for a refund or another core. have you tested it with water to if it leaks?

They are going to replace it and supply a thermostatic sandwich plate. So getting somewhere at least

Just thought I'd let you guys know that we're having dinners each Wednesday for the next few weeks to discuss what people want the club to be for next year.

I know it's a hike for you guys, but you're most welcome to come and have a chat about what you guys want in a car club. I'll post up next weeks Dinner details once we have it sorted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...