Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

unfortunately my car is running a microtech, I am on the 'buy a house' budget now and cant afford to change it again

my thought is to have an airtight tank under bonnet with a barb on the top and a barb on the bottom

top barb has a check valve and a ball and spring like a turbo tech to regulate when boost can pressurize the tank, bottom barb runs direct to the atomiser which i will mount into the suction pipe on the turbo.

as the system hits target boost pressure the turbotech will open and push the water through the bottom side of the tank spraying its mist into the non boosted intake stream

thus the dual map idea isnt going to work too well unless i am manually switching... plus i dont think the microguess has dual map capability (i am surprised it can window in and out....)

good to know it doesnt consume it too quickly, I would probably end up with a 5 or 6L underbonnet tank if i was to go ahead with it and just want to know it will last atleast a week of heavy driving or atleast one full track day.

LPG solenoids for air and water and a hobbs pressure switch are your freind....., if your on the cheap you can find the solenoids at a wreckers.

and a EF falcon )think thats it) radiator header tank for a bottle...throw it in the back..

I had it setup like that pre-turbo with a water/air atomiser on my 31, and my brothers gemini has it aswell, his makes 250rwkw on 26psi on 98 octane at 6000ish rpm.(runs 126-127mph)

His would make f**kloads more but had a very small 210 @ .50 - 350 thou lift camshaft at the time. It s still a G180 with a Gt3082.

Both where not octane limited, i stopped as i made enough power and my brother stopped because of boostleaks when tuning. Both setups can run into 30's on pump,

I inject 700ml per minute, think he only used 200ml ish.

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31
  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Pre-compressor induction of the water spray is a different sort of science. And wait for the comments about wearing out impellers etc. It is apparent that you have to do it right, but it will work.

Sizing your nozzle correctly should yield a water:fuel ratio of somewhere around 15-20%

Some setups work better than others, and there are a couple of forums about dedicated to WI. Great pictures, and more than a few variations that will give you an idea of what you want.

Thanks Dale, very much agree it will be careful nozzle selection that pulls it off but definitely believe it is doable without too much hassle.

Ill definitely read into the best way to do it, but am chasing the simplest method over the best... If my boost fed plan isnt half as good as an electronic kit i will probably ditch the idea.. Unless a kit is available fairly cheap. The S14 is designed to be a bang for buck project which I seem to need reminding of very regularly.

LPG solenoids for air and water and a hobbs pressure switch are your freind....., if your on the cheap you can find the solenoids at a wreckers.

and a EF falcon )think thats it) radiator header tank for a bottle...throw it in the back..

I had it setup like that pre-turbo with a water/air atomiser on my 31, and my brothers gemini has it aswell, his makes 250rwkw on 26psi on 98 octane at 6000ish rpm.(runs 126-127mph)

His would make f**kloads more but had a very small 210 @ .50 - 350 thou lift camshaft at the time. It s still a G180 with a Gt3082.

Both where not octane limited, i stopped as i made enough power and my brother stopped because of boostleaks when tuning. Both setups can run into 30's on pump,

I inject 700ml per minute, think he only used 200ml ish.

cheers

darren

Thanks heaps for the falcon bottle heads up, that is freaking clever because they are more or less the radiator header tank rather than an overflow.. They are made to hold pressure and have barbs exactly like what I need, THANKS!

Also very nice to know how helpful it is man, that is a tiny cam in that old clunker of a motor making nice power with a good MPH. My brother put a 3037 on an Astron2 2.6 POS and only managed 170kw with lets call it NO MPH :P

When I head to pick n dont pay for a BA TPS soon Ill pick up a header tank for teh lulz, see how well it will fit into my battery tray on the S14

Think water alone will fend off both big boost AND my 10:1cr or is that a tall order? LOL Ive seen these setups make rotaries do things that seem impossible

water alone will do it best, 50/50 makes a bit more power, we picked up 8 rwkw from switching from water to 50/50 on the gemini, however i ran just straight water.

Straight water is probally best for what you want to do. Funny thing is the water injection done this way, as the boost increases, so does water flow, so works better in my opion than the

pump ones (without a variable flow control computer thing)as they have ALL there water flow when they switch on ay 8psi ish.

Yeh rotarys run 25psi plus 98 octane tunes this way, best thing is they don't blow up aswell like usual on other fuels...

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

ive had to park this concept for now,

mechanically/electrically/tune wise I cant find a problem and everything is right but my shitf*ck gay microtech just cant get the SR fire up. spluttering like it wants to go but wont go...

will pick this back up once i stop losing sleep about this new problem

ive had to park this concept for now,

mechanically/electrically/tune wise I cant find a problem and everything is right but my shitf*ck gay microtech just cant get the SR fire up. spluttering like it wants to go but wont go...

will pick this back up once i stop losing sleep about this new problem

Not a flat battery..lol, i only ask because of the amount of times that has happened....under a certain voltage they switch the pumps of. Had it happen 3 times to various

people after fitting them. Cars still has plenty of volts to turn over at that point aswell

cheers

darren

ive had to park this concept for now,

mechanically/electrically/tune wise I cant find a problem and everything is right but my shitf*ck gay microtech just cant get the SR fire up. spluttering like it wants to go but wont go...

will pick this back up once i stop losing sleep about this new problem

checked your timing with a timing light, i know they have issues with the cas offset, they are a weird number compared to some other nissans.

LOL @ nistune, its on the cards..... Obviously cant put a timing light on it either coz the fking thing wont start..

I suspected the pump being an issue already, even low fuel, etc etc... I put a fresh battery in it and it nearly turns over quick enough to idle on the starter lol.. I actually grounded the pump control wire also so it just stays on while cranking.

Still no love :(

Ive timed the motor mechanically as per the FSM (rocker cover off and lined up all the timing marks) and I have spark and fuel (injector pulse too), but no go. I even sprayed startyabastard while cranking and it just wont fking kick over... Its trying and splutters along but it just wont do it.

I changed the reference points for the cas a little and got it sounding a little closer to starting but not close enough obviously..

FFS I could really use some help right now lol... I put an essay on the microtech forum and thus far I am the only person to have even looked at it.....................

I actually rang them today, they were closed over xmas (understandable) and the tech there was actually really helpful.

Told me to try a couple of things and call him back if it doesnt start. But he confirmed my method of wiring and all the rest are all fine and no issues there, also said i can put a timing light on it while cranking and check where it is (didnt know that) and told me how to properly set the TPS which I didnt know.

With the TPS issue resolved and knowing the timing position definitely is correct it should start :whistling:

I actually rang them today, they were closed over xmas (understandable) and the tech there was actually really helpful.

Told me to try a couple of things and call him back if it doesnt start. But he confirmed my method of wiring and all the rest are all fine and no issues there, also said i can put a timing light on it while cranking and check where it is (didnt know that) and told me how to properly set the TPS which I didnt know.

With the TPS issue resolved and knowing the timing position definitely is correct it should start :whistling:

What injectors? What do the plugs look like?

Nismo 550s

They get very sooty after lots of cranking but they arent getting wet unless im really trying for too long in one go. I get fiery pops out the back too. I sprayed start ya bastard down its throat but no go.

Pretty confident the timing is out but how it could be is beyond me..... maybe my cas is stuffed. Its picking up a consistent signal and is registering RPM on the data screen of the microtech but just wont start. When I timed the cas I took the rocker off and put it to TDC where the cam marks met the silver links on the chain (it only gets there once per 4 rotations - der 4 stroke) so i know that is right in theory..

I dont think its possible to put the chain on wrong (and AFAIK its factory).. If the cam gears are meeting the links exact and the crank is saying TDC it cant possibly be mechanically 180 out.......... I have a feeling the S14 DE dizzy drive gear is slightly different to the DET CAS drive gear and is causing me some sort of odd timing issue that I hope ill find when I put the timing light onto it.

Thing is this tune used to work.. Then the battery died and I couldnt restart it. I then changed the entire motor (as it had spun a bearing) and rewired the headfk spag bowl it was prior until it was 100% stock. Got it started on the stock ECU then rewired the microtech back in, and it never started again -_- lol

Wiring is that freaking simple it CANT be wrong. that is all.

  • 2 years later...
On 14/4/2011 at 7:16 PM, tridentt150v said:

OK, thread raised from the dead.........I made 301.5rwkw today on a DD dyno.

I drove it around without a tune [that used the WMI] like forever...............it wasn't knocking and the car was making good power etc and I am a bloody busy bugger!!!

But I finally made the time and had it tuned. Run before tune made 270rwkw, then we kept adding timing and pulling fuel out until we had a good overall balance and got 300 on 16psi for the final run. I probably could have got more if I wanted to up the boost to say 18-20psi, but considering my motor is not built, I didn't think it was worth the risk.

I'll scan the plots and post soon.

Apologies to all who were waiting for this, I just couldn't get to it any sooner.

Can I revive this - is the car still happy on the WMI? 
cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...