Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Justin, yeh I think they probably are meant to go into the cabin. However I wouldnt have any room to mount them all inside without it looking silly or taking up a fair chunk of room. So left it out in the engine bay. Hopefully they wont get too wet there as they are not exactly water tight lol.

Didnt work Justin.

Edited by r33_racer
Justin, yeh I think they probably are meant to go into the cabin. However I wouldnt have any room to mount them all inside without it looking silly or taking up a fair chunk of room. So left it out in the engine bay. Hopefully they wont get too wet there as they are not exactly water tight lol.

Didnt work Justin.

I'm planning to run mine into the glove box or up behind the dash.. Apparently they are fairly sensitive to water and rough conditions... If you do go Vipec, they are compatable and plug right up. Do your thermocouples penitrate into the gas flow or just in the bung welded on the outside or each runner? I keep getting different advice-

PM again.

Ok. Busy day yesterday finishing it all off. Took it for a drive and it ran like shit, as expected. Some further playing in the datalogit with the injector settings smoothed that out. Still doesnt like coming onto boost so early. My guess the fuel map isnt too good for the 0.5-0.8bar of boost it makes as soon as you stomp the gas. The overboost valve is working, hence the low boost.

Ok the catch can does have some baffling inside of it. But it appears to breathing fine. Guess ill find out on the dyno when it counts.

The electric power steering pump isnt setup yet. Its last on the list of things to do. I Will mount it and hook it up once everything else is sorted and working fine.

Interesting you say that justin, cause a few times ive seen mine read some funny temps, maybe engine noise/vibration is causing this... But the actual sensor ends of mine protrude into the runners, so they have gas flow running past them. Well I may have to re run them back into the cab somewhere if it keeps up. Goddamit!

Ok so the good news is there is a video I did yesterday afternoon. It just shows it running. Its not that good and it has me coughing and speaking in it a few times. My apologies.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHCbYgR3mBg

ok so i just dropped the belt and took it for a drive and it was fine in na form. so it seems its just the tune thats making it hesitate when it tries to boost. i was worried it was a mechanical issue with the setup.

So there was a blow out from the discharge port. The aviation goop I used (loctite 3J) wasnt strong enough to keep the two faces sealed even though they are machined. Dont know what RA it would have been. But I know I had to re-mill the face of the outlet pipe flange after welding as it bowed a little. I would have thought with the 3J it would have been good enough, guess not. I refitted both the outlet pipe and bypass valve and regooped them up with some threebond. Hasnt fully cured yet, but did a quick 6500rpm stab and it made 1 bar of boost and it seems to be holding perfectly. No signs of leakage from around the flange face. :(

Now the overboost valve was fully open and screaming when I did that and it still managed to push 1 bar of boost upto the plenum. Starting to think it might not be big enough. But hopefully once its tuned it would be needed to control boost. It also is stupidly loud when its venting. Other issue is when you let the throttle off sharply, the pressurised air goes out the bypass valve and I think goes out the intake and through the afm...bringing back the unstable idle issue for a second as the revs stabilise. I may need to fit a BOV.... :rofl: I was hoping to avoid having one. Another thing Ill have to see if necessary after dyno tuning.

Man that thing is wicked! 1 BAR free revving, haha must be hitting load points its never even been close to before.

It'll be interesting to see what its like after the tune :P

Got to get me one of those twin screws.

Cheers Simon! Im sure you will see it. It will have to be one of those days when there arent any cops to be seen for miles!

Yeh the 1 bar is pretty crazy. Im not sure what boost its even going to make when its fully on song with the overboost valve locked up. Hopefully nothing too stupid like 30+psi. Well tonight we re did the egt modules and put them inside the car, in the glove box to be specific. It was a shit load of mucking around to get them in there, but its done and working. Which im happy with, though I must admit, sparkies must be just brimming with patience, because it took forever and it was a carnt! I cannot stand wiring. Anyway, its all done now, just needs to be tidied up after the ecu goes back in behind the kick panel.

So hopefully tomorrow nothing goes wrong and it all just does what its supposed to do :D

I just read through all 11 pages of this build r33 racer...fantastic to say the least.

Good to see someone tackling something different & should yield some very good results once tuned !...post tune results asap. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
    • They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)
×
×
  • Create New...