Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i got myself a bit of a pickle here... a few months ago i found out that nizzpro performance did a 1jzgte conversion into nissans. so i went out and bought a r32 shell without a engine and diff which was pretty much all i was looking for. i got the money arranged yesterday so i went into nizzpro this morning to talk to them about exactly what it would cost etc.

so i asked the blokes there about it and he took me through the workshop, telling me the info that i needed to know. after a bit of discussion, he got me onto a rb25 conversion, both looking at it being a bit cheaper, it would only take a bit over a week compared to about a month and more power out of stock internals and is generally better. he seemed to dislike the 1jz conversion a bit more as well.

the original base offer for the 1jzgte with everything included and installed was $7500 (not including diff or suspension), but they've had to bump up the price a bit because of price increases in some of the items they buy to do it. but to get the rb25 in it will cost around the $7000 mark with everything i wanted (suspension and diff included).

iv been searching on the net this afternoon with 1jz vs. rb25 discussions, and everywhere i read that 1jz is a better engine both in potential and strength. so now im feeling very undecided. the car is just going to be a track/drift car so its going to be under the pump a fair bit.

what are your views on 1jzgte vs. rb25det? pros and cons for its intended purpose.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307137-1jzget-vs-rb25det/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

twin turbo 1jz or vvti 1jz? what gearbox?r154 or w58?

power wise, the 1j has it anyday on a pretty well standard engine.

they should really only take the same amount of time unless he doesnt have all the parts there.

either way just be a little bit wary of them

i bought a few things off them a while ago and it took them a long time to get me things id payed for. ie. 1 year later i received the last parts and at the time i had bought 2 rb25's and a shell from them so i was probably their best customer.

In my experience 1J is pretty much bulletproof when MAINTAINED and a hoot to drive no matter what its in just with bolt ons. X10 for the VVTi version

I suppose it comes down to if you want to commit to a conversion. Or just bolt in and go nuts

Some plus points for the 25 is of course bolt in, 5 Speed gearbox is cheaper, aftermarket parts avalibility, and short blocks are prob cheaper when it blows.

But if it was me, and I had the coin to do it properly it would be 1J all the way.

A better comparison is 1J VS RB26

In my experience 1J is pretty much bulletproof when MAINTAINED and a hoot to drive no matter what its in just with bolt ons. X10 for the VVTi version

I suppose it comes down to if you want to commit to a conversion. Or just bolt in and go nuts

Some plus points for the 25 is of course bolt in, 5 Speed gearbox is cheaper, aftermarket parts avalibility, and short blocks are prob cheaper when it blows.

But if it was me, and I had the coin to do it properly it would be 1J all the way.

A better comparison is 1J VS RB26

Not really. Rb26 would be compared to the 2jzgte.

Rb25<1jz<rb26<2jz

$7500 for a RB25 conversion + suspension + diff

I'm assuming the suspension and diff costs at least $3000???

No way a RB25 conversion costs anymore than $4500 at the absolute most, even then that is a silly price.

Not really. Rb26 would be compared to the 2jzgte.

Rb25<1jz<rb26<2jz

If you look at the pecking order, yes, thats how you would compare them.

But I believe that the 1J is a whole lot better then a 25. So not much point comparing them. Each to their own, but this is from what ive seen in front of me.

The day I see a 25 sit on the limiter for 3 minutes laying rubber is the day ill compare it to a 1J. I am no Toyota fanboy either, I own 3 skylines.

$7500 for a RB25 conversion + suspension + diff

I'm assuming the suspension and diff costs at least $3000???

No way a RB25 conversion costs anymore than $4500 at the absolute most, even then that is a silly price.

that includes exhaust, ecu, wiring, exhaust, labour, fmic, alloy rad, 2 way diff, few other bits that im missing etc.

1jz>rb25, but in your case, go the 25, easier, cheaper etc.

it sounds like he doesnt want to do the 1jz conversion, thats why hes trying to talk you into the 25, much easier for him.

theyv done a few recently and said that they'v lost a bit of money on them because prices have gone up on some parts. he was quite happy to still do it, just with his reasoning it seemed like the 25 was better

I think the Toyota engine is superior to the Nissan.

But you're doing a conversion so there's a lot more to look into than simply engine selection.

Before you make any decisions, have a close look at any 1 or 2JZ's installed in a Skyline or Silvia.

The exhaust manifold is on the opposite side to Nissan, so your brake and clutch master cylinders cop a lot of heat, especially as you've mentioned track/drift?

Exhaust will be dropping down in a very crowded area for any RHD vehicle.

You'll be paying someone for this work and it's obvious, the Nissan engine is the easiest (cheap/reliable) option.

engine quality the toyota engines are much better than the nissans.

as far as your conversion goes though, i would stick with the nissan engine as for the extra money that you save on putting the rb25 in you could do some upgrades to it and be better off.

however if it was me doing it, i would scrap the idea of using the r32 shell and just go out and buy a complete r33 gts-t and mod it. cost wise it is going to work out similar, considering the price of 33's these days and what you would get back from selling out the stripped parts. weight wise it is only a fraction heavier than a 32 (would only be a few kg's in it between a 32 with a 25 and a 33), especially once they are both stripped down to track spec. but as i said, that is the way i would go. you can do what you want

Just recently purchased a chaser (1JZ-GTE), and i must say its a better engine than the RB25. Stock vs stock the 1J is deff quicker. Well it feels like it. I have owned a skyline 33 (rb25) for 3 years, and now a chaser. Straight away i could feel the difference.

I would put a rb25 in that 32. Easier, cheaper and it will be less hassles.

I have just completed the rb25 conversion into the r32 - well worth it.

Car has more everything and the swap was pretty simple. From a part point of view the rb25 has it but from an engine point the 1jz

Maybe speak to afew people who have completed the 1j conversion and see what upsides/downside they have exprienced? It cant all be good :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...