Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just wondering who has experience with quick release steering wheel hubs?

I've used two types now and am not 100% happy with them. Thinking of grabbing a Works Bell unit (not 100% sure on the ball locking arrangement due to poor past experience), or a spline-type Sparco group N unit. I've played around with the Sparco unit before and am leaning that way.

Any thoughts?

WB-070223_b.jpgsparcoquickblack2.jpg

Cheers,

Dane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307340-quick-release-hubs/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've had the Sparco spline type unit but found although good due to very little slop, it was also often a pain to re-attach the wheel in a hurry due to they run a neccesary master spline (especially if you've not left the steering dead straight), as you sometimes need to when running from the little girl's room to the start. They're also too expensive.

For 18 months I've been using the D1 Spec from JJR, http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1, and to be honest, can't really fault it, no slop, quick to release and engage, easy to line up when engaging, and cheap as chips.

Edited by Marlin

Dane, The ball bearing units tend to get sloppy really quickly, where as the splined units tend to stay tight for much longer. Also make sure that they are keyed so that the wheel can only go on in the one direction.

What issues did you have with the detent ball number Phunk? I've been using one for a couple of years and its been fool proof.

It had a bit of play in it which I wasn't very happy with, but it was a good 4 or 5 years ago now so others may have improved.

Ben: Thanks for the JJR tip, hell of a lot cheaper than the Works Bell units. I've not really considered using them due to my past experience, but may do now if you're happy with yours. Was it as tight as the Sparco unit, or relatively close to?

Stephen: That's what I'm wary of mate, but perhaps they've improved over time? This is my current unit. It has no locator but it pretty easy to line up. But since the grease has gone from it it has a little play.

post-8405-1265603177_thumb.jpg

It had a bit of play in it which I wasn't very happy with, but it was a good 4 or 5 years ago now so others may have improved.

Ben: Thanks for the JJR tip, hell of a lot cheaper than the Works Bell units. I've not really considered using them due to my past experience, but may do now if you're happy with yours. Was it as tight as the Sparco unit, or relatively close to?

Stephen: That's what I'm wary of mate, but perhaps they've improved over time? This is my current unit. It has no locator but it pretty easy to line up. But since the grease has gone from it it has a little play.

Its the JJR version that I have been using too Phunk and its been sweet as. No play and easy to use.

Dane, note that I'm using the D1 Spec version, not the virtually identical but slightly cheaper JJR branded one. We DO have a JJR version on one of our cars but it hasn't done enough time for me to say if it's as good. I don't really see any reason why it won't be though.

I actually find the D1 better with less play than the Sparco unit, although the Sparco had been in use for three years as opposed to 18 months or so. Regardless, the enormous price difference will more than make up for any possible shortcoming in it's longevity in my opinion.

how do you guys go for space when using these things? I suppose you have an advantage in a 32 as it has adjustable reach so you can play a bit but in the s13 which doesn't i'd end up with the steering wheel in my face once i add 3 inches of quick release.

Dave i had the same problem in my R33. I had to ditch the expensive jap steering boss and make my own which allowed the nut to recess into the D1 quick release. I will put up photos in my build thread soon. In the end when you sat a std wheel face down and my rpm wheel with the bosses attached the rpm one was only 10 mm higher.

how do you guys go for space when using these things? I suppose you have an advantage in a 32 as it has adjustable reach so you can play a bit but in the s13 which doesn't i'd end up with the steering wheel in my face once i add 3 inches of quick release.

On the GT4 we ran into this problem, but found it ok once we ditched the dished steering wheel and sourced a more suitable flat wheel.

On the GT4 we ran into this problem, but found it ok once we ditched the dished steering wheel and sourced a more suitable flat wheel.

It works out well for me. My wheel has a bit of dish too. I have longish legs so I need the seat back a bit to give my knees some clearance. The quick disconnect has the advantage of bringing the wheel closer to me when my legs are comfy.

I've been running the JJR one for years too without problem (except i lost the double locking pin...but still no chance of it falling off).

I also run a flat wheel to make up for the extra column length and don't mind a steering wheel closer

Dane, note that I'm using the D1 Spec version, not the virtually identical but slightly cheaper JJR branded one. We DO have a JJR version on one of our cars but it hasn't done enough time for me to say if it's as good. I don't really see any reason why it won't be though.

I actually find the D1 better with less play than the Sparco unit, although the Sparco had been in use for three years as opposed to 18 months or so. Regardless, the enormous price difference will more than make up for any possible shortcoming in it's longevity in my opinion.

Ahhh ok, thanks Ben. Looks like this may be the go then considering how cheap they are. If it gets any play in it I'll bin it and get a fresh one. :D

Dave: I get away with it as I'm 6'4. I just went to a flat steering wheel instead of a dished wheel and it's sits perfectly.

Thanks for the help all!

have used a sparco one for a few years and it was good but still not fool proof. a mate once didn't connect it properly and had the wheel come off in his hands (not cool in a GT3 cup car!). as the others said it's also a bit tricky to bang the wheel on if it's not straight (this was the problem the mate had).

I've used about 5 of the just jap "D1 spec" branded ones and have no complaints. one of mine I've now used in 2 cars and it's been good for 3 years or more. another one went into a group N touring car (alfa) that gets lots of action and never a problem there either. the little locking pin shits me so I remove that as with the cuff being spring loaded there's little chance of you accidentally pulling the wheel off.

to be honest I can't see how the works bell one would be any better as it's exactly the same design as the imitation ones. it may use better materials but I personally don't think so.

the one you have looks odd? with those big drive surfaces I can see how it would easily have some play in it.

I would try the china one. they are only about $80 or so. if you don't like it flog it for $50 (max of $30 spent in 'testing') and then buy the $300 sparco one. :D

the other good thing I forgot to add about the ball type ones is that you can put the wheel on any way you like and then spin it into position. it will only lock on once it's in the right orientation which is good. where as the sparco one you have to put it straight on the right way.

Dane I figured out what's wrong with your set-up. your stack dash is interfering with the quick release and making it sloppy. take the dash out and send it to me and I'll evaluate it for a while in my car just to make sure it's ok and that it's compatible with a ball type quick release. I'd hate for you to go out and buy one only to find that it's not compatible with the stack dash as well. it'll probably take me a while though, coupla years. beautiful.

I've been thinking that all along myself Richard! It's in the mail as we speak. That RZ of yours hasn't rocked up to my place yet though... I think we'll need to speak with the post office and find out what the go is :(

Ok, I am well sold yeah :banana: Very minimal investment to try out the D1 quick release, and if I'm not happy with it I'll grab a Sparco (from all reports I'm sure I will be though). Should have bought it in the first place and saved myself a few hundred. Dang...

if you don't like the D1 spec I'll grab it off you mate. I need another one soon. the sparco is good and sturdy but at triple the price I can't see myself buying one again. it's nice, and the splines look cool and do work, but the design the D1spec copies is sound too.

Cheers mate, thanks for the help :(

If you take into consideration the aussie prices for both, it's pretty hard to justify the Sparco if the D1 works well. $700 at Revolution, ouch! Though a lot cheaper out of the 'states.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...