Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Just came across this turbo, it is a GT3076R turbo but made to bolt up directly to the skyline manifold and dump pipe. Only modification is to the water lines.

They also do it for GT28RS, GT2871 or GT3071.

Bottom of Page 2:

http://horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_2.htm

Seems very interesting although I spoke to Michael from GCG and his response was:

"We used to do these bolt-on turbochargers, however, we ran into heavy boost spike issues, as the factory 6 bolt Nissan housing is just too restrictive and small on the back of a GT3076R. This was the case, whether it be machining the original housing, or using atermarket cast housings"

Just wondering if anyone has used one or if anyone has any more information around them?

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah thats my preferred option too, its just its $2k compared to $3k for the real one (complete kit) plus you need a new dump pipe etc.

Edited by Harey

Garrett dual ball bearing GT3076 internal wastegate:

Garrett cartridge CHRA 700177-5015

Highly ported Nissan 45V4 front housing

AVO .73 rear housing 6-bolt skyline style

bolt on, $2300 with lines from Adelaide Turbo Services

garrett chra pricing: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...am_May_2007.pdf

avo rear housing : http://www.avoturboworld.com/pdf/gts_exhaust_housing.pdf

post-18854-1265765204_thumb.jpg

no boost spike

was using a hks 14pound actuator but upgraded just now to a garrett 18psi turbo actuator

boosts quicker and holds nicely at 1.25bar, no spike

feels very powerful, will redyno test soon

A 0.73 rear is too small IMO. OK for making sub 250, but you will have issues over this.

Anyway, much better off with an external gate if you want to make good clean power. An internal will do it, but you have to fight against it all the way, it is never easy. Just read all the threads on internal gate problems aka boost probs.

Bite the bullet and get a real Garrett 3076 WG, around $2K plus water/oil and dump pipes.

I also just found this earlier this morning.

I've been reading this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch....html&st=20

and I'm put off the idea a bit by Mafia, but I'd like to see what somebody thinks of these new sizes.

Is it just a better idea to buy the 3076 they have here http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod641.htm and then get the extra parts from somewhere else?

The more I read on this the more questions I seem to be asking...

Is it just a better idea to buy the 3076 they have here http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod641.htm and then get the extra parts from somewhere else?

that turbo wont physically bolt up to a skyline manifold. needs to be T3 not T25.

A 0.73 rear is too small IMO. OK for making sub 250, but you will have issues over this.

Anyway, much better off with an external gate if you want to make good clean power. An internal will do it, but you have to fight against it all the way, it is never easy. Just read all the threads on internal gate problems aka boost probs.

Bite the bullet and get a real Garrett 3076 WG, around $2K plus water/oil and dump pipes.

agree 100% on internal vs external, re: good clean power

external seems to be the way to go if you want good clean power and no issues

check out roy's rb20 td06 setup, with his proper external setup (manifold, gate, dump) his setup is bulletproof and makes tons of power, even on the rb20

that turbo wont physically bolt up to a skyline manifold. needs to be T3 not T25.

Oh ok, there's a T3 they've got there too, thanks for that.

But in general, is it going to be better to just buy something like this http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod18.htm and then find the parts other people are recommending?

Appologies if these are particularly stupid questions, I'm very new to selecting indivual parts for turbos.

Cheers,

Tim

A 0.73 rear is too small IMO. OK for making sub 250, but you will have issues over this.

0.73 rear doesnt sound that small. Guys are making good power with the 0.63 housing. Yes the optimal is a 0.82 housing, but 0.73 isnt far off that!

Standard R34 OP6 housing is what 0.5 something. Guys are making 250rwkw with a smaller trim hiflow wheel.

Edited by Harey

I pissed my AVO 73 housing off as it didnt like making power and i had all sorts of problems with it

put on a 82 external and it already feels better

Edited by Haines

gt3076r turbo itself is around $1800 mark? then around $500 - 600 to fit with new dump oil/water lines intake pipe and cooler pipe

pretty basic , 3k is way 2 much for a complete bolt on kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...