Jump to content
SAU Community

And Let The Issues Begin!

rb26stagea

By rb26stagea,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
Posted

So... Having just spent (another) fortune on the Stag in the last few months (full interior, sound system, radiator, oil and trans coolers etc), The car was pretty much finished, with the exception of my new wheels (getting repaired and repainted), and the roof rail replacement kit (should arrive this week), so all was rosy: birds were singing, the sun was shining, etc etc...

I had some concerns about the rear diff: last time I was getting work done, my mechanic mentioned that it showed signs of binding: it took 3 strong guys to push it out of the workshop, and in hindsight, it's been feeling a bit odd in the handling department: just not quite as sharp as I remember, but I put it down to the extra weight of the leather interior and audio system...

On saturday just gone, I pulled out of GreenGhost's (Myles) driveway, and the car stalled. The wouldn't start again: it turned over happily (the battery is a 2 month old 750cca unit), the FC hand controller was working correctly, the immobiliser was disengaging correctly, but the fuel pump wasn't priming. "Easy," we thought, "the fuel pump's died" Easy fix.

Not so: at this stage (and it's early days yet), it would appear that the Power FC has died: It's not starting the fuel pump, and there is absolutely no sign of injector pulse. The real buggr is that I just spent a heap of effort (and cash) moulding the hand controller behind the manual shifter: it looks trick, and saved me substantial money on extra guages...

So before I end my whinge, it looks like I'll be up for a new ecu (Thinking I'll go the Haltech this time around).

On the diff side, I scored, and managed to find a pair of suitable closer ratio diffs( 4.33 as opposed to the current 4.1 I have) for CHEAP, so they're on their merry way to me at the moment: the current diffs are too tall: it hits an indicated 185km/h in 3rd gear, so I was considering either a closer gearset for the transmisson, or closer diffs anyway...

There. I've vented. I'll keep the updates coming as I find out more (assuming anyone is interested)...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308399-and-let-the-issues-begin/
Share on other sites
stagman Community Regular

stagman

Posted
Posted

So um if your sick of your car...I'll take it off your hands? haha

Sounds great what your doing to the car, bummer about the PFC though. Your car would have to be one of the more heavily modifed in the OZ stag scene by now wouldnt it?

M I K E Mentor

M I K E

Posted
Posted

ditto that. without being able to see it (and going from what you've described) it sounds like a problem with the pfc board. if it is, and yours can't be repaired, why not buy another one (minus hand controller) as they are relatively inexpensive compared to buying a new management system and having to get that tuned. you already have the tune to swap on to the new pfc if you go that path

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Plug in Link (Vipec) for R34GTT is NZ$1800. Did you install your PFC? Did you have to change the order of some of the injectors and if so did you do it inside the PFC or change the wires around in the loom? I am getting a Link and the options (for an S1) are to change the injector signals or put in an R33 s2 loom and get a GTST Link...but I would rather stick with the existing loom and plug.

CruisingFast Collaborator

CruisingFast

Posted
Posted (edited)

Looking forward to seeing your new setup when it's all done. You should definitely look into seeing if anyone can repair the ecu.

I've been having some issues with some recent mods myself, I got a bunch of HKS gear, adjustable cam gears for the intake and exhaust, oil cooler, catch can and the racing induction kit. They couldn't get enough fuel into the car, was leaning out with the standard fuel system so I've since purchased HKS fuel rail with HKS 600cc injectors and bosch fuel pump with HKS fuel pressure regulator.

I also followed your advice on the redline and am getting some lightweight for the gearbox and diff, if you know the quantity I need approximately can you pm me please.

Looking forward to the next cruise!

Edited by CruisingFast
rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Kiwirs4t: No, it was all professionally done when the conversion was done by my old man, years ago: I have since had it retuned to 420hp@4wheels.

Stagman: I would hope so: it is the most comprehensively modified I've seen in Aus, but by no means the most powerful (yet!).

Mike and Scotty: there is nobody I have heard of who repairs them over here, and the jap repair option is both expensive and time consuming (minimum 3 months from what I have heard), and I have never been 100% happy with the PFC anyway, so I'll go the Haltech option assuming the current ecu is FUBAR.

Cruisingfast: Bring it on! lol! I'll give you a call tomorrow and let you know...

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted (edited)

Most probably its just an IC that is blown. Do you know if the board is potted? (covered in epoxy)

I may be able to repair it, I used to repair circuit boards to component level. Its worth a look inside before you bin it anyway.

Got anyone up there thats switched on with electronics?

Edited by scotty nm35
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted

I have heard of them being fixed, just trying to remember who it was. End of the day, electronics/circuit boards are circuit boards. Doesn't matter if its an Autronic or PFC. Cheapest option is new PFC and copy your tune over, and that keeps the hand controller where it is.

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
...

On the diff side, I scored, and managed to find a pair of suitable closer ratio diffs( 4.33 as opposed to the current 4.1 I have) for CHEAP, so they're on their merry way to me at the moment: the current diffs are too tall: it hits an indicated 185km/h in 3rd gear, so I was considering either a closer gearset for the transmisson, or closer diffs anyway...

...

Sorry just for my own understanding... you say your current diff's are 4.1? and the new ones are 4.3?

So isn't that

4.1 = 4.1:1

4.3 = 4.3:1

I make 4.3:1 "taller" than 4.1:1 (it's a higher ratio)... so won't you be doing less than 185km/h in 3rd with the new 4.3:1 diff? (like ~176km/h or something?)

...hmm reading it again, maybe you meant your diff's are too short, and you want that you should be doing more than 185km/h in 3rd... yeah, that's probably it :(

Big Fella Mentor

Big Fella

Posted
Posted
Sorry just for my own understanding... you say your current diff's are 4.1? and the new ones are 4.3?

So isn't that

4.1 = 4.1:1

4.3 = 4.3:1

I make 4.3:1 "taller" than 4.1:1 (it's a higher ratio)... so won't you be doing less than 185km/h in 3rd with the new 4.3:1 diff? (like ~176km/h or something?)

...hmm reading it again, maybe you meant your diff's are too short, and you want that you should be doing more than 185km/h in 3rd... yeah, that's probably it :(

4.3:1 means 4.3 turns of the tyre to 1 rotation of the tailshaft meaning quicker acceleration and less top end.

For some reason it has always referred to as a shorter ratio - i"m a mechanic and some of the guys here at work still get it confused -

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted (edited)
4.3:1 means 4.3 turns of the tyre to 1 rotation of the tailshaft meaning quicker acceleration and less top end.

For some reason it has always referred to as a shorter ratio - i"m a mechanic and some of the guys here at work still get it confused -

eh? now I'm really confused...

4.3 turns of the tyre to 1 turn of the tailshaft (I think this is backwards but I'll go with it) is MORE turns (slightly) than 4.1 turns of the tyre which is the current situation... which would mean LESS acceleration...

I think this is backwards /\ though, because if it were 4.1 turns of the tyre to 1 turn of the prop. shaft, and with 4th/overdrive gears being as they are close to 1:1 (sometimes less), that would mean that at 2,000 rpm in overdrive the tyres would be spinning at 8,200rpm which (for a 17" wheel with 245/45 tyre, approximately) is something like 16,400 metres in a minute (circumference of about 2 metres according to http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_size_calculators.html) which is a crazy 984000 metres in an hour... or 984 km/h ?? Am I going nuts or something lol ?

Whereas if the final drive ratio were to work as I suspect it does (4.1 turns prop. shaft = 1 turn axel) 2,000 rpm in overdrive would come out at about 58km/h... which I think sounds more reasonable?

Edited by DaveB
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Yep final drive ratio is number of turns of the propshaft to turns of the axle. A tall ratio is a smaller number and a higher gear. I myself am looking for a taller ratio (higher gear) so that I can exceed 320km/hr [just kidding - I want a taller ratio so that I will have less revs when cruising at the effective legal limit of 110km/hr as I expect the extra torque of the RB30 will mean i don't lose out on acceleration].

I have a 3.54 to 1 front diff out of an R34 GTR (which actually is not much lighter than a Stagea) and I am looking for a matching rear diff (may have to import one from Japan as i have had no luck so far).

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

Also smaller circumference tyres = faster acceleration less top speed. Larger circumference = slower acceleration but higher top speed, and less revs at legal speed limits, less boost etc.

rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the hiher the ratio, the quicker the acceleration, but the less the top speed: I want MORE acelleration, at the expense of top speed.

Just spoke to my mechanic: looks like the fuel pump relay is cactus: when the pump is powered up independently of everything else, then the Power FC seems to allow the injectors to work. Does this sound right??

If this is the case, then I'll be up for a new relay for the fuel pump, and everything should run again ok, whick means that the money I just budgeted for a new ecu can now be spent on a GReddy intake kit and Z32 airflow meters: hopefully resulting in better spool-up, and some actual turbo noise!

I'll keep you guys updated.... :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Marek
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Marek · Posted

      Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Marek
      Hi everyone.

      By Marek · Posted

      Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...