Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Since i've joined i often see threads with people asking about good workshops etc. and i too initially found it hard to decide where to take my car. Its hard because the forum rules say we cant say anything negative but i'm a big believer in credit where credit is due so i wanted to share my experience with Tunehouse here in Sydney.

First of all i'm in no way affiliated with Tunehouse, i don't get any discounts and when Jim was booked out on the dyno i waited my turn like everyone else.

My car had a turbo rebuild, clutch rebuild and half a dozen or so other bolt on parts fitted recently and i had all the work done at Tunehouse after hearing good things from a friend of mine with a similar car. My first impression was a ridiculously clean workshop (who paints a workshop floor almost white>>!!) with blokes that always say hi and are happy to just have a chat.

For every part i wanted the intended power level and use of the car was taken into account and Tony was happy to explain things to me that i probably should have already known!! I was given 2 or 3 options at differing price levels for each part and Jim, the owner and tuner, recommended the cheaper option to me for a couple of parts as they were more appropriate for my goals; which i really think shows how genuine this guy is.

The tune is beautiful. The car makes the power i wanted with a good strong curve, starts cold every time, idles flat and partial throttle and Sydney traffic driving is all dealt with without a fuss. Me having my car back just how i wanted it makes me so happy and i just wanted to share that with you all. If anyone wants to discuss what i paid then please ask via pm.

When you see this workshop and see how these guys look after their own cars, you'll know why i felt happy to leave my pride and joy in their hands. A massive thankyou to Jim, Tony, Tim and the boys at Tunehouse!

Tunehouse050210Painted120210008.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308826-tunehouse-marrickville/
Share on other sites

That's not a workshop, that's a freaken show room!

I think from what you just said, I might just bring my car there too.. it needs a new clutch and I can't be bother doing it myself.

Hey Sean, thanks for the kind words. Your car has undergone quite a transformation since we first saw it and it has been very satisfying for both myself and the team here to be a part of it.

We are very happy you are satisfied with the work we performed and we look forward to working with you in the future.....

Cheers,

Tim and the team @ Tunehouse

Top stuff - good to see another happy member with their cars and a workshop!

so what power you make?

260rwkw @6000rpm peak :)

Haha I was thinking the same thing it looks like a show room.

Good to see they did a good job and your happy with it. So does this mean your bringing it to the next texi?

ohhhh yes :(

Wow. That is one of the most impressive dyno rooms Ive ever seen. You know someone takes their business serious when you see something like that.

Glad to hear you have a great result. Always good to hear of quality workshops.

Luke...

Do you see the woman in the red dress in the matrix code there, I do - shes a hottie :down:

Yeah, nice dyno room and glad to hear you are getting good results first time round. I had to make my way through three shops before I got a decent result.

Do you see the woman in the red dress in the matrix code there, I do - shes a hottie :down:

Yeah, nice dyno room and glad to hear you are getting good results first time round. I had to make my way through three shops before I got a decent result.

No I found her in the other window on my browser. :D That code is insane. Love it. Infact. Misspost of the year.

I'm getting them to do the work and tuning on my xr6 turbo when I'm ready later this year, they have an excellent reputation - one of the few i havent heard anything bad about. I got a service done by them after I got the car and I was shocked when they called me and said we can do this, this, etc and spend a lot of cash but its only because they were so thorough and they told me what i needed and what I could always do later. Never had that anywhere else.

They're not the cheapest shop around but for those guys who are more interested in quality and service it's well worth dropping by to check out the place.

I don't trust workshops that are as clean as Tunehouse, it irks me!

they're workshop is literally cleaner then my living room :D

Besides the absolute cleanliness of their working conditions and ability to tune nearly every ECU under the sun, I can't comment, never taken my car there :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...