Jump to content
SAU Community

Damo's R32 Gts-r, On Going Project Fun Car. History And Use Full Info


Recommended Posts

the pipes are done and polished aparently much to my suprise. so ill get them back wednesday then have a crack next weekend at finishing them.

cams timing belt ect are back on to.

Nice, neat lobster backing! It seems like you made all the mistakes on mine and yours will be schmik.

i had so much fun building your dump that i just had to make another one. ive upgraded some of the tools thoe that are making all the difference. it wasnt a bad job that whole system for a pair of noobs.

It would have been un-australian to not have taken advantage of a day off and worked on my car today.

only a few hours thoe a i ahd to spend some of the day with the other half.

i collected my welding jobs and to my suprise my mate john had polished the pipes to.

DSC03923.jpg

he had done an outstanding job especialy for the price.

i put them back in and started on the centre section.

this is as far as ive gotten.

DSC03931.jpg

thats everything tacked in bar the front section of the rear pipe. im also only half way through making a splitter to put the 3 1/2 into 2 x 3" pipes

it looks ruff now but ill tidy it up.

DSC03930.jpg

i also started on the new colour scheme for my wheels as i got some more wheels recently and have finaly decided on what i want the over all car to look like.

DSC03927.jpg

DSC03928.jpg

its a bit of a wait and see now as i have a few more coats to go and i have to pain up the rears to match. hopefully they will look the part.

New dead line is an event around the 20th of Feb. so it needs to see the rollers in about 2 weeks. yay.

paints looking good but ill have to wait till all the rims have tyres to show them off. still a few more coats to do on the rears.

ive lined up some 295 tyres to have a play on once the rims are painted.

i spent a good hour or more trying to make the next part of the split pipe. third time lucky i cut the peipe just right to fit. im hoping to have the finished item back early next week. that will inspire me to get the rest of the engine together.

i made up the hot side cooler pipe last night. one pice from turbo to intercooler. ill put a pic up once thats done.

ive made up a bracket to mount my engine dampner to. (these are a grate bit of gear. and they save engine mounts) should get that back with the exhaust.

generaly heaps of little jobs done. will put some pics up after the weekend.

  • 3 weeks later...

just a small update.

these are the pipes before being welded and polished.

DSC03936.jpg

just for the haters. a gtr seat mounted on the stock seat mounts.

DSC03937.jpg

hot side cooler piping done. one pice turbo to cooler. this would be about the 10th revision of my cooler piping since i got the car.

DSC03945.jpg

engine dampener welded up. still have to fabricate mount on the engine side.

DSC03943.jpg

dump pipe braces to gear box to help cracking. i was going to heat wrap it but decided i better put a bung in for a wide band at some stage.

DSC03938.jpg

And the front wheels painted for now. rears are awaiting final coat.

DSC03942.jpg

DSC03941.jpg

hot side cooler piping was finished tonight just needs to be welded.

  • 2 weeks later...

thought id drag this back up.

no pic but weve had a massive few nights on the car and bar the a small amount of wiring and a diff the cars good to go. all then engine bits are back on just working on the finishing toutches. i got 50% of the floor welded back in so now i just need to finish that off. very happy with the results so far.

stay tuned for some pics.

Pic's dammmn it!!! ha ha ha.

Agreed :yes:

When i saw you masking up the wheels I was pretty skeptical because i like the colour scheme they were, but they came out pretty good :thumbsup: Would like to have seen them with the red on them still though

Agreed :yes:

When i saw you masking up the wheels I was pretty skeptical because i like the colour scheme they were, but they came out pretty good :thumbsup: Would like to have seen them with the red on them still though

thanks for the comments on the wheels. i seen this idea on a car from last years tokyo auto salon and that was on a full black and white car. ive since seen the same idea on an orange lambo in the states. it fits my way of thinking somthing a bit left field. i honestly dont like change but i like to try new ideas that people are to scared to do.

i left the red lip but it looked to much on the wheel. im sure the finished over all package will look the part. only a few days ago i came up with some stickering to tie them in with.

and as for pics. ill see how i go tomorow night other wise it will be during the weekend. but the section of floor that has been replaced now sports camo paint to blend in with the rest of it and my 4" intake pipe is repping some monster crinckle. its realy just a show car now. i hope it brakes down on the first few runs so i can sit in the pits with the bonnet up. haha.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok update time.

started the week looking at this

DSC03979.jpg

and this

DSC03980.jpg

i spent most of the week working on this shitter. everything i went to do required custom work. nothing went to plan as usual.

somthings i did were weld in the last half of the floor.

DSC03982.jpg

that ended looking like this

DSC03990.jpg

mounted the turbo up and made intake pipe

DSC03986.jpg

painted up and fitted my home made bomex type mirrors

DSC03991.jpg

and finished off the side pipes. wheels ect.

DSC03992.jpg

DSC03988.jpg

we also did a bit to my mates black drift car. he recently brougt an origin cabon GT wing

DSC03983.jpg

i ran the car at barsky yesterday but after a dozen runs the turbo shat itself. as vedence the turbo tried to eat itself.

DSC03996.jpg

this left me running a fair bit of peak.

we had 4 r32s down there for the day. one kept blowing fuel pump fuses because the metal baffel in the tank had come loose and was hitting the fuel pump wiring and shorting it outout. this is the seccond time ive seen these baffels come loose.

mine had boost issues then terminal boost issues. open wheeling diff. poor front end grip caused by bad alignment and tyre combo and a useless driver

bens car had a fuel leak and all the sensors i had wired into the dash the night before hadnt been calibrated so they didnt work

the black car had a "not accept throttle" fault that turned into being an open circuit wire between the tps and ecu. somthing that has now accured twice on cars i know, and a power steering pump missalignment fault that caused it to shread a belt, so we changed brackets from my dead 32 to his car an then the belt finaly broke. was very close to anyway, then we moved the pupm and bracket to be fitted like mine lower on the block due running out of belts. that fixed the belt shreading issue but the issue it has had for a long time of power steering going normal then hard then normal half way thrugh a corner was still present. that fault resulted in him loosing power steering during a scando and hitting a wall. luckily due to the massive wheels it only left paint marks on the rims and mirror.

as my car was out of action i also lent my coil packs to another r32 driver to allow him to continue drifting miss free.

to redeem the day i got to do track car V drift car time attack in the black 32. that was a ball. i havent had that much fun driving for a long time. pushing road tyres to there limits.

i also made this for fun.

DSC03987.jpg

nice mate. I still LOVE the side pipe effort. full credit mate, it's an awesome set-up and very practical. no more squashed/bashed/dented/ripped off exhaust pipes for you. :)

nice mate. I still LOVE the side pipe effort. full credit mate, it's an awesome set-up and very practical. no more squashed/bashed/dented/ripped off exhaust pipes for you. :)

thanks mate

i think every one that seen them on the week end aproved. i can say thoe that they are noisy as hell inside the car. somthing i will have to adress once its going again.

Car is looking really good Damo, shame about the turbo... surely its not even that old?

And as for noisy in the car, I found the best way is to get a better helmet with ear muffs and that :P

Hey damo, just stuff the sound shield box full of fire blankets... help cut the ressonance down.

Dude--- sucks about the turbo!

You know, I recon a nice set of red top rb20 rocker covers in crincle red would look good toooo.... :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...