Jump to content
SAU Community

Cams To Use With Hks 2835 52t Turbines

Turbz_13

By Turbz_13,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Iv found a daily driven car that's also used on track running a bigger version 0.73ar as mind are 0.64 or 0.61 can't remember that's running hks 272 with 10.5mm lift with springs retainers and seats. And ported head. Although its making 720hp..

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

Full boost around 6000rpm sounds about right, which means you'll need to change each gear at over 8000rpm to keep on boost.

I'd stick with mild cams ~270° max, with moderate lift. High lift and duration cams are harder on the valve train. The large turbos will extend the top end significantly anyway. Just focus on getting a lighter and stronger reciprocating mass. Get some strong and light pistons, rods, nice bearings and get the crank checked. Probably look at a dry sump setup.

Can't see a stock RB26 holding onto those revs at high boost for long, especially on a track.

dorifticon Community Regular

dorifticon

Posted
Posted

As per the above post, given the fact that your power band will be moved up between 6,000 and 8,000+ rpm.

I am running 272 deg cams at 10.5 mm lift and these are probably not enough to support such high rpm operation. Their efficiency range is much lower rpm, probably coming on at between 3 and 4000 rpm, which is suited to my longer-stroke, slower revving 3.1 and smaller turbos. Yes going bigger with cams means more doughy down bottom - it will be slower off boost than a VL commodore - but for that size turbo you are optimising for high RPM operation. I think the above suggestion about 280 deg would be the minimum, as you will need big duration to maintain 'acceptable' ramp angles.

And your mum probably won't be impressed if you throw her the keys to drive it down to the shops, as per your thread about the turbos, but that's a given for this setup.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

Decided to ditch these and start on building a new engine.

Your engine is more than likely capable of high 300s if you choose the appropriate turbo. Shouldn't need to rebuild it, what turbo are you thinking of replacing it with?

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

At the moment looking into building a stroker engine. I know the obvious for streetability and response the choice for turbo are twin bolt ons and they will punch out the numbers i want but as iv said somewhere iv always wanted a single turbo 26. I thought people are getting decent results from mid sized singles these days?

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

At the moment looking into building a stroker engine. I know the obvious for streetability and response the choice for turbo are twin bolt ons and they will punch out the numbers i want but as iv said somewhere iv always wanted a single turbo 26. I thought people are getting decent results from mid sized singles these days?

My personal preference is for a single, tricky to match or better a good twin setup but definately possible.

That said is it your 2835's on ebay atm?... i think i need them, whether or not i win them is another story :P

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

Na they aren't yet mate. They'll be up soon tho. Do you want me to let you know when they are?

i'll keep an eye out, set my ebay snipe for the pair on there now so we will see how it goes.

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

With the stroker my brother who's a mechanic is gonna help do all the non critical rb26 stuff. He isn't in a performance scene but is full of knowledge when it comes to all mechanical stuff. And has put me onto an engineering shop in addl who's build some of adel hardest gtr's

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...