Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i am just trying to organise getting the day off work, but most probably will be getting my entry in for driver training this week. you should enter driver training too, then we can get our team wang racing stickers!!!1

hmmm will sit out for this and come watch :cool: maybe get some pointers from track gurus
i am just trying to organise getting the day off work, but most probably will be getting my entry in for driver training this week. you should enter driver training too, then we can get our team wang racing stickers!!!1

I could be mistaken but I think you need to do Phillip Island to qualify for the stickers!

I could be mistaken but I think you need to do Phillip Island to qualify for the stickers!

You are wrong.....you need to stay at the Wang to do Winton to get the stickers :P

But if you really want the stickers just contact Bec :ninja:

im going to come down to watch, will they let me in just to watch? or do i have to be participating to enter. is the front gates open or only allowed through the side gate?

i was going to bring some friends down so make sure you guys show them what skylines can do.

there were no mod rwd there on the day iirc?

but the standard rwd belongs to me now?? :)

was an awesome, day...errrr night..

had a ball!

there were quite a few blowups / failures / offs.

include marty and I.....:nyaanyaa:

so after hearing wat andrew was saying about brake temps in the first session i thought i should give the car an even longer

cooler down in the second session. though it didnt help.

brake pedal was hitting back at me, though it may have just been warped rotors....

got onto the pre grid for the 3rd run, in the dark. this is going to be cool, glowing brakes, great pics of the flames from my car.

hrm i better check those rotors.

DSC_1098.jpg

shit im out :)

just on the outside part of the disk

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

but then get home :nyaanyaa:

DSC_1101-1.jpg

but that is all the way through.

edit: oh they are dba 4000, so expected anyway...?

Bugger, i cracked a rotor at Calder too. Matt, what was your best at Calder? I am pretty sure between Ryan and a few others that none of mine or your times stand ay any track aymore :)

At Calder i think my best was a 1:06.4, LOL with a cracked rotor, crabbing on the road anda hot day with a pinging engine with flat spotted tyres from Dutton :) :) It was my last track day in the 32 and the reason why i stopped tracking it until i had time to go through the car and do a refurb on much of the suspension, fuel system and brakes at an expesnse its take me a few years to afford.

But fark help you all when she gets back out there :)

Bugger, i cracked a rotor at Calder too. Matt, what was your best at Calder? I am pretty sure between Ryan and a few others that none of mine or your times stand anymore :) At Calder i think my best was a 1:06.4, LOL with a cracked rotor, crabbing on the road and pinging engine :) It was my last track day in the 32 and the reason why i stopped tracking it until i had time to go through the car and do a refurb on much of the suspension, fuel system and brakes

my time still stands.. 1:05.4 back in 2006!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...