Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, sorry to dig this thread up but just bought myself a 'Drift' oil catch can from autobarn. (Not sure if these are any good brand wise..)

It will be going on an rb20det when she is running again.

This is an installation guide for a rb25? I believe?

My question - Is it the same size hoses etc. to install this onto an rb20? And really $80 for the catch can and over $400 for hoses/connections? :/

Hi bud,

I am far from an expert on rb20dets as i have only worked on my rb25det but as best i understand they are the same for this DIY mod.

as far as oil catch cans are concerned that one you have bought is fine..... however the overkill in this instance with the $400 on all the speed fittings etc is not necessary as the catch can has very little pressure. so you could use just braided clear hose if you like, however its probably not the best material.

Now you can get proper braided oil hose from Repco or a local hydraulic supplier as long as its oil resistant other wise it may deteriorate over a long period of time.

as for nifty fifty fittings to replace your stock cam cover outlets contact this bloke on the forums - (to be advised 'waiting on a mate' to get back to me) :)

Depending on your budget you can have the catch can plumbed back into your sump so you never have to drain it when it gets full.

Good luck with the mod.

THIS GUY!!! ------> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/user/1619-interloper/

Edited by PickleNick
  • Like 1

Hi bud,

I am far from an expert on rb20dets as i have only worked on my rb25det but as best i understand they are the same for this DIY mod.

as far as oil catch cans are concerned that one you have bought is fine..... however the overkill in this instance with the $400 on all the speed fittings etc is not necessary as the catch can has very little pressure. so you could use just braided clear hose if you like, however its probably not the best material.

Now you can get proper braided oil hose from Repco or a local hydraulic supplier as long as its oil resistant other wise it may deteriorate over a long period of time.

as for nifty fifty fittings to replace your stock cam cover outlets contact this bloke on the forums - (to be advised 'waiting on a mate' to get back to me) :)

Depending on your budget you can have the catch can plumbed back into your sump so you never have to drain it when it gets full.

Good luck with the mod.

THIS GUY!!! ------> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/user/1619-interloper/

Sweet! Cheers for that man, also wasn't aware I could also plumb in back into sump.

I will be shooting that guy a pm shortly, I gather just tell him what I'm doing and what I need?

Thanks again

Yeh bud just tell him they're the cam cover breathers. couldn't think of the term when i wrote this up the other night.

And also if you are in brisbane looking for hoses try Powell behind Repco at coopers plaines.

Edited by PickleNick
  • 3 weeks later...

my 32 has previously had a catch can (was SUPPOSED to be still on there when i bought the car) and im having trouble locating the pcv, is it supposed to be at the top of the engine or bottom? curently have a hose from the passenger side cam breather just hanging free currently, so will be hopefully installing a catch can in the near future, but as said, having trouble with the pcv.

  • 2 months later...

Rb 20 det:

note: pcv is located on the inlet plenum.

DSCF2903.JPG

Can $40, hose $12

Hey, with your GK-Teck cooling panel.. Did it look to you as if the flange thingo where you put the bolts through, where bent very unprofessionally?

Lol got mine the other day and it was scratched, and where it's bent looked like someone took to it with a hammer.

Was very unimpressed. :(

Hey, with your GK-Teck cooling panel.. Did it look to you as if the flange thingo where you put the bolts through, where bent very unprofessionally?

Lol got mine the other day and it was scratched, and where it's bent looked like someone took to it with a hammer.

Was very unimpressed. :(

Ha, yes they are dodgy, but its cheap and saves me making my own.

I had to give mine a bit of a tweak to get it to fit.

Like this ?attachicon.gifimage.jpg

Looks legal, as long as that hole in the top of the can is blocked off.

Lol, mines just sitting there in a corner.. I don't even wanna put it on hahaha..

A can of flat black paint hides all. :ninja:

  • 2 weeks later...

some inspiration, this is my engine bay & how I've set it up... simple :)

DIY-Skyline-Radiator-14-of-14.jpg

So is that both cam breathers joined, one hose from that to the can and then back to the intake pipe? Forget the PCV?

Like this?

post-78856-0-90399800-1383634621_thumb.jpg

^ factory breather joined, factory PCV still connected.

With the above setup, the catch can will only "catch/breathe" when there's positive pressure in the plenum. On VAC/idle/off boost the plenum will pull nearly all of oil vapours.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...