Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock R33 Gtr Turbos

levinboy

By levinboy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

levinboy Grand Master

levinboy

Posted
Posted

Hey all my first post!!! had a quick search couldnt find what i was after, I am curious to know how strong the ceramic wheeled turbos that come stock with my GTR??

What amount of 'torture' can they withstand??

And also what are some of your opinions of the ARC super induction box??

thanks

nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310093-stock-r33-gtr-turbos/
Share on other sites
levinboy Grand Master

levinboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
std ceramic exhaust wheel like the other gtr ones

it may fail if you go over 12psi ish

if it fails, it can kill the engine

So would it be better to leave on standard boost and save up for new turbos??

Say N1s or GTSS or garret equivalent

Edited by levinboy
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted
So would it be better to leave on standard boost and save up for new turbos??

Say N1s or GTSS or garret equivalent

If you go R34 GTR N1's, they are pretty much the equivalent to HKS GTSS, different Compressor Housing and Compressor Wheel.

Specs wise is very similar, but max power output is approx:

N1's = 367.75 kW

GTSS = 411.88

... From memory.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted
If you go R34 GTR N1's, they are pretty much the equivalent to HKS GTSS, different Compressor Housing and Compressor Wheel.

Specs wise is very similar, but max power output is approx:

N1's = 367.75 kW

GTSS = 411.88

... From memory.

WRAOWNG - Neg.

2860-7s ARE r34 N1s and 2859-9s are HKS GTSS without actuators (i believe 2859-1 are the same with the actuators attached or get -9s and use ur stock actuators)

N1s are not GTSS, they are 2 different turbos.

N1s are alot like stock but stronger as not ceramic, go the GTSS (-9)

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted
WRAOWNG - Neg.

2860-7s ARE r34 N1s and 2859-9s are HKS GTSS without actuators (i believe 2859-1 are the same with the actuators attached or get -9s and use ur stock actuators)

N1s are not GTSS, they are 2 different turbos.

N1s are alot like stock but stronger as not ceramic, go the GTSS (-9)

Ah yeah!

Fuck, I over looked that on my turbo chart.

Thanks.

BTW there are 3 Spec of R34 GTR N1's :P

I just compared the specs and they were quite similar but the GTSS and -7's are pretty much inline ball with each other... Like you said.

GTR R34N1 (14411-AA403)

GT22 / C106 / 44.5 - 60.0 / 55T / 0.42 / T25 / GT25 / 42.4 - 53.8 / 62T / 0.64 / Ball Bearing.

Garrett 707160-7

GT25 / GT25 / 44.5 - 60.0 / 55T / 0.42 / GT25 / GT25 / 42.4 - 53.8 / 62T / 0.64 / Ball Bearing.

HKS GT-SS

T04B / GT25 / 44.46 - 59.41 / 56T / 0.42 / T25 / GT25 / 42.4 - 53.85 / 62T / 0.64 / Ball Bearing.

  • Like 1
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted
lol that i did not know!

post it up

34N1 (14411-AA401)

T3 / C106 / 44.5 - 60.0 / 55T / 0.6 / T25 / GT25 / 42.4 - 53.8 / 62T / 0.64 / Ball Bearing.

34N1 (14411-AA402)

T3 / C106 / 44.5 - 60.0 / 55T / 0.6 / T25 / GT25 / 42.4 - 53.8 / 62T / 0.64 / Ball Bearing

34N1 (14411-AA403)

GT22 / C106 / 44.5 - 60.0 / 55T / 0.42 / T25 / GT25 / 42.4 - 53.8 / 62T / 0.64 / Ball Bearing

Pretty much the same but the Compressor Housing and the Compressor A/R are different.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

:P

  • 3 years later...
djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
Posted

Stock R34 GTR turbos run around 0.8 bar boost with restrictor in. With boost restrictor removed they run about 1 bar. On the ball bearing turbos 1 bar is fine.

Problem is, most people think their boosted 'genuine' 60,000km gtr will withstand 1 bar forever... Only to realise the Turbos have done more like '160,000' km's after they go bang.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      thanks GTSboy. My confusion at the moment is i am trying to locate the ignition, ECU battery power and the ECU negative The closest thing i can find is the for the S15 on Page 8 of the Wiring Specialties web page https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F33_M_GgENQnZ6STMxVmVNd1E/view?resourcekey=0-eZ4nNRwRoqa1qvKlWWHm8A I cannot find the same diagram for the R33 RB25DET Series 2 dash plug pin out.... Do you know what the Pins? or know where i can find the same pinout diagram for the RB dash plug? Thanks for the advice on the box... i like a 6 speed so might be on the lookout or the box now.. a topic of discussion for another post...
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
×
×
  • Create New...