Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What do you class as good prices? R33 and R34 GTR's still fetch good prices for good examples and when you see the cheaper ones you have to ask your self why, whats wrong with it.

R33 $40k to $50k

R34 $90k to $100k

What do you class as good prices? R33 and R34 GTR's still fetch good prices for good examples and when you see the cheaper ones you have to ask your self why, whats wrong with it.

R33 $40k to $50k

R34 $90k to $100k

The prices you mentioned are very reasonable. I'm not trying to find a bargain just trying to find somewhere who sells them with reasonable profit. I'm not going to give any names here but some sydney importers must be out of their minds to ask $120-140K for near standard R34 GTR and $60 for R33 GTR. Just like you said if it's way below market price it'll make you suspect the car however if it's way over the market price than it makes you suspect the dealer (read: greedy).

Are there companies that you know of other than www.j-spec.com.au and www.prestigemotorsport.com.au who import good condition R33 and R34 GTRs for reasonable prices?

I got my car through j-spec and couldn't be happier, some dealers/car yards can be greedy but some of them wear the cost of purchase, shipping, compliance etc etc and want a good profit. So a car like the following can end up on a yard for $50 to $60k http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/0050

Guys Im currently obtaining my Motor vehicle dealers license. So i have a fair bit of inside knowledge in the car game.

1. The difference between a $50k car and a $40k car is $10 k, THERE IS LITTLE OTHER DIFFERENCE IN STOCK CARS.

2. People "arrange" to have the speedos wound back to around 40 -60k as the aussie market likes cars with this amount of ks. (Theres a guy that advertises in the Sydney trading post to wind back your speedo)

3. A car with loads of extras adds only a little to the price, many dealers remove extras, such as alarms, suspension etc as a stock car sells for a fair price and there is a ready market for aftermarket gear.

4. remember when you buy from a dealer you have to be prepared to pay for part of his rent, wages, insurance, license fees, advertising and the big killer GST of 10% on imports.

The trick is look at heaps of cars add what the extras THAT YOU WANT will cost you second hand and then offer a fair price.

Remember that theres plenty out there that wanna take ya money, not many want to help you make some money.

I got my car through j-spec and couldn't be happier, some dealers/car yards can be greedy but some of them wear the cost of purchase, shipping, compliance etc etc and want a good profit. So a car like the following can end up on a yard for $50 to $60k   http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/0050

I know a guy who bought a r33 gtr from J-spec and he also couldn't be happier.

I went through http://www.directimported.com.au/. I found Phil very good to deal with. My car hasn't arrived yet so I can't give you the final answer but so far it has been a good experience. I looked local for a bit over 6 months and was dissapointed with what was on offer so went the import my own route for better choice. Look to pay for a good grade stock 33 GTR between $40-45K for non V-spec and $45-50K for a V-spec. People will tell you they can get heaps cheaper and all the local GTRs that I looked at were cheaper but the reality is to get a good grade (4+) 33 GTR thats what you have to pay, if you want cheaper you get cheaper. Never looked at 34s a little out of my range. Good luck!

Your best to buy stock, I've been looking around as well.

And I think you could get a R34 GT-R non v-spec for around the $40,000 to $45,000 imported and all the on the road costs.

no idea about an R33 GT-R but it'd be less maybe $30,000 all up?

Right now I just did a conversion, for a 90,000 yen to aud and it is $1108.80 AUD.

I've checked that at 3 different converters and it's same at each one.

So you can get some real cheap cars, just need the time to wait for a good car at the right price.

Those prices are too goo to be true. For a decent 33 GTR at a Japan auction you will be looking for about 2 million yen all the way to 2.5 million yen for a real spanky version (stock). Even grade 1 or R still go for around 1.6 - 1.7 million. And anyone who can ship, pay duty and GST and then comply a car for around 5 -10 000? Give the name of your governmentcustoms officer and compliance workshop!

Those prices sound good for 32s and 33s not 33s and 34s.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...