Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think he'd probably like to, but I'm pretty sure he'd cry if he broke that Sard front bar. It's the only one I've seen in aus (other than mine).

That's something I'm not looking forward to... MRZEDX (stock body) can't get in my driveway, so I doubt I'll be able to once I'm lowered and got the kit on.

your hunk of fibreglass is meaningless to most of us, even if you're the only two in oz who were willing to pay money for it.

personally I prefer the factory front bumper with clears and a lip like the C-One, Abflug (with fender flares) or Cruz make over that fibreglass Failside looking monstrosity. The factory styling of an MR2 is actually pretty sweet with the right stance... no need to fux wid it.

Also, my gutter dips before my driveway, converting my 15 degree driveway into instant 45 degree. i just put wood blocks in the gutter when I wanna move my car in and out. if you wanna rock the lifestyle, then you'll make it happen.

The bottom of my driveway isn't the problem, the top is. That, plus the piece of wood that my gates slot in to. That thing is a bitch. My exhaust sometimes hit it at stock height!

i mixed up some concrete with the old man and did some DIY on our driveway (suck it, local council)

doesn't scrape anywhere near as badly, but then who looks on the under side of your front bar? no one.

i mixed up some concrete with the old man and did some DIY on our driveway (suck it, local council)

doesn't scrape anywhere near as badly, but then who looks on the under side of your front bar? no one.

fucken maso's lol :thumbsup:

council f**ked up my driveway nicely...

told the c unts to come fix the shit, so they 'tested it' with their car... one of those ford RTV utes that are jacked up....that cleared so it's within the guidelines apparently.

cocks

council f**ked up my driveway nicely...

told the c unts to come fix the shit, so they 'tested it' with their car... one of those ford RTV utes that are jacked up....that cleared so it's within the guidelines apparently.

cocks

yeah the council were useless with us.. wanted to charge us some absurd figure to redo the whole thing on a more car-friendly angle

yeah the council were useless with us.. wanted to charge us some absurd figure to redo the whole thing on a more car-friendly angle

i'd tell them to suck my cock if they even thought about asking us to pay...pretty sure the driveway was perfectly fine before they came in an f**ked it up the ass to solve the cock head next door neighbours water build up problem....Well done council, the water doesn't pool in front of his driveway anymore...It pools in front of the 2 driveways you f**ked up to fix what wasn't even an issue in the first place

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...