Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I want it to be 100%, I'll need to piss at least 10k on it.

I need to piss the dynamat off, previous owner had it covered in boot including 4wd and HICAS ecu... Stereo wiring to be binned, sound deadener removed, louder exhaust required, new wheels, 100k service, rip the hicas off, list goes on...

That shit you listed will take half a day to do.

Theres a reason why r32's are selling cheap and you have to be pretty silly to buy one and not expecting to work on it.

Go buy a Toyota Corolla if you dont want any hassles

Yeh Leigh, 5. I'll try make some cash on it...

Mx5 lol, would lOok hilarious driving that.

Eh, I'll work it out, if exemption gets knocked back, I'll cut my losses and sell it for what ever it gets and buy a landwhale. If it doesn't get knocked back, well. Fuuuu dead aircon

lol i dont want to spin all 4 wheels, easier to buy an RB20DE and swap it in.

i dont wanna go fast, i dont wanna track it( yet) happy as long as its a skyline

you're missing the point. Your gts4 has a 4wd drivetrain. Including all the heavy bits involved which, as noted, become useless because the na won't produce enough power to drag the heavy ass body around in 4wd and the extra weight and less power will mean a barina will probably win in a drag race.

Join the Rolla Club Mohsen!

AE86 for da sidz yo!

:laugh:

sudden infant death is all the rage these days with the muzteks maccas employees?

You missed the part where I'm a red p Plater that is not interested in dragging people. Rb20det is already slow as it is

think you missed the point where even Nissan went "shit this thing is slow as, alright, lets make it standard with a turbo and not have an N/A option." You seem to want to do what even Nissan didn't want to. Shiet bitch, you mad!

hence why the R33 GTS4 and R34 GT-4 had no turbo, cos the 2.5l n/a met their power to weight ratio requirement. GTS4 and GT-4's were meant to tow shit and be passenger taxi's you took to the snow. They weren't meant to be sports cars, they got the worst of all the models, small engines, heavy drivetrain power loss, heavy chassis/suspension etc. You pretty much buy one as a daily to tow shit around, or pull almost everything out of it and replace it with GTR guts to make a GTR sedan. No one in their right mind buys a standard GTS4 and thinks it's a great sports car.

turned the car on today and its knocking from the back of the motor.

just a slight knock but it changed with light revs. :/

turned car off straight away

clearly you cant tell 100% what is smashed without pulling it down, but how much am i up for if it's just a bearing?

and what the hell should i do if it's more :/

wrecker lucky dip? refresh? rebuild?

why would it be worth any more then what you bought it for lol, i tried the same thing when selling mine, for lols i put it up for 14k, ended up reducing it to 10, and getting 9.5k for it in the end

maybe chuck it up for 6.5, if no bites in a fortnight then gonna have to put it down, also depends on how desperately you want to sell it, took me about 1 month or so to sell mine.

if anything you paid too much for that car. cut losses and sell for what you bought it for a $100 less, at least that way some cheap dropkick will buy it, just like you did.

otherwise you'll end up with a car you can't drive that you can't sell, with no money to buy another.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...