Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Quick question.

I clearly have coil pack failure when running the higher boost setting (12psi)

In the interim ive been running the lower setting which reduces the stutter considerably.

Unfortunately due to work commitments ive been unable to surrender the car for repairs.

Question is, other than the stutter, could this cause anything more serious? and should i be realistically dropping everything and having it sorted right away?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311364-coil-pack-failure/
Share on other sites

Just because you can go into boost doesn't mean you must go into boost. Simple solution is to not go onto boost EVERY time you drive the car - there is very little reason to do so.

Skylines are very sluggish without any kind of boost however. Where I come from im always using boost to allow me to maintain decent acceleration when fulling out of side streets etc to save a bingle.

However you can reduce the boost enough with your right foot that it wont break down.

Personally I dont think you will see much trouble from the odd misfire

replacing coil packs is a relatively painless job you can do yourself. So order them and some sparkies and do it one evening at home.

As for driving, if you drive smoothly and with fore thought its really easy to drive off boost and have no problems maintaining speed/acceleration. Its kinder on your brakes too.

Anyone who says you need to use boost all the time to drive at an ok speed is doing it wrong.

So take it easy, drive smooth and stay off boost when possible and order yourself some sparkies and new coils. you'll be sorted in no time.

the hardest part about it would be removing the coilpack cover and crossover pipe. u just needa know how to use a ratchet as its just undoing bolts. then just unbolt the coilpacks, pop them off, take out the sparkies. change them with new ones gapped to 0.8mm and change the coilpacks too (if u got the money)

Skylines are very sluggish without any kind of boost however. Where I come from im always using boost to allow me to maintain decent acceleration when fulling out of side streets etc to save a bingle.

However you can reduce the boost enough with your right foot that it wont break down.

Personally I dont think you will see much trouble from the odd misfire

Kidding right?

Keeping an R33 off boost they'll out run most of your little 4 cylinder cars around that are going at full noise.

If you're pulling out in a gap that you'd drive off in an excel at full throttle to "save a bingle" please go hand your licence back in!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...