Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SO I had a shot at putting GT-R rear seats into my 4-door 32. The fitment looks ok, but is definitely 1 inch narrower than the 4-door items.One problem I have found however is that the back section is slightly shorter than the 4-door version. Has anyone else encountered this because as far as I knew they were the same height :S.

In terms of comfort the GT-R ones are so much better so i'd really like to get them in :(.

they shud fit if u bring a hammer out? or are they fitted and you just want them to look better?

i had a spare set of r32 2 dr rear seats and i fitted them to the cefiro by getting the grinder out and trimming some of the metal links so that u cud move the metal part that bolts in.

p.s r32 2dr rear seats dont suit ceffy's well, their not wide enough and are shorter

this is taken from a tech article of seat inter-change-ability from NS.com

SKYLINES R32 R33 R34 GTS GTS-T GT-T & GTR

It is 100% fact that all skyline coupe & sedan front seats are interchangeable from 1988-2004(or when ever the last r34 was made)

the front seats of the skyline sedans are all interchangeable the rears are model specific. and you CANNOT put skyline coupe seats into a skyline sedan they are much narrower and the back rest is alot shorter in the coupes!

  • Like 1
this is taken from a tech article of seat inter-change-ability from NS.com

SKYLINES R32 R33 R34 GTS GTS-T GT-T & GTR

It is 100% fact that all skyline coupe & sedan front seats are interchangeable from 1988-2004(or when ever the last r34 was made)

the front seats of the skyline sedans are all interchangeable the rears are model specific. and you CANNOT put skyline coupe seats into a skyline sedan they are much narrower and the back rest is alot shorter in the coupes!

I read somewhere on SAU that the R34 series (excluding the R34 GT-R have) have different seats.

Hmm that goes against what I was told previously but confirms my findings.. Dang.

i've heard they are only short by the smallist bit, however it is noticeable, depends on how picky you are with those sorts of things.

I read somewhere on SAU that the R34 series (excluding the R34 GT-R have) have different seats.

i dont get what your trying to say, they may have different seats but going by the tech article they can all be swapped over with each other.

The width doesn't bother me.. it really isn't much I think I measure 1 inch on each side. The height is the problem because it doesn't appear to 'seat' properly. It could be that my seat is slightly damage though which is why I bothered to ask :(. The bottom piece fits perfectly.

  • 2 weeks later...
i dont get what your trying to say, they may have different seats but going by the tech article they can all be swapped over with each other.

What he is trying to say is that R34 front seats are not interchangeable with previous models (33, 32). I think the article may just be referring to R34 sedan fronts and R34 coupe fronts being changeable with each other but it reads a bit confusing.

Edited by Habler
  • 10 months later...

had same problem puting mspec interior into 4 door r32 so i just moved the fixings up 1 inch so the back part clips in right, and the seat part just sits up at the back .would never notice but it does have 1 inch gap either side.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...