Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Money isn't an issue????? looks more like brains arn't in the posters head, you could buy something pretty decent for the amount you would waste trying to make your stupid idea work. Like I dunno, a decent conditioned tuned R34 GTR easy

Make sure you run a twin screw setup as they offer boost on demand unlike the centrifugal types like Vortech etc... here are two vortech charged cars and look at the difference in boost curves...

Vortech and the centrifugal types are like your worst LAG nightmare and are only useful for dyno comps....

Here is your average boost curve vs a vortech;

typical_boost_curve.jpg

Here is Vortech vs twin screw (kenne bell type)

vortechvskennebell.jpg

and the comparo of the two setups running the same boost.

twinscrewvscertifugal.jpg

drove past his house on friday.. car is still in the exact same spot.. surprised that it hasn't been nicked yet.. and had a vs commy wagon in the driveway lol..

my guess is some douche walking past took a photo for a laugh.. or the OP is really stupid for taking a photo straight out the front of his house which was easily identifyable

hi im wanting to put a gen4 or shall i say a ls2 6litre with a 6 speed and heavey dutey racing clutch .and bolt on a

yada yada...

I say let him do it, let's even assist him with a smile, in the great way us SkLiNer's often do....... :dry:

and let Darwin's Theory do the rest. :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Here I'll reconstruct his post into something meaningful (note that this is impossible as the intentions of the OP are just plain screwed from the start) with an Oxford spin:

Hello there chaps.

I am conducting some basic background research on the feasibility of converting my R33 Skyline from the well engineered factory setup, to running a Holden Commodore drivetrain - specifically a "Gen 4" (AKA LS2) engine and Tremec T56 gearbox. Ideally, I would like to include an heavy duty clutch in conjunction with this setup. I have also considered the advantages and disadvantages of both twin turbocharger and supercharger setups, should the LS2 be insufficient to meet my power needs - I have reached no certain conclusion on the matter though. Of concern to me is how this setup will affect the handling characteristics of my otherwise well-performing vehicle. I must also ask while I am here, has this been done before? Has anyone accomplished such a feat? Graced my fine province with a beast of burden akin to this? It is quite perplexing to say the least, and frankly, I am running light on patience. The attention of others I do crave, I would like to be remembered as he who succeeded in doing what no other has...remembered as he, who, the very thought of would cause the human mind to implode in a fit of self destruction. I would consider an RB30 and RB26 hybrid conversion, however my affinity for the V8 engine configuration combined with my passionate and everlasting love for the R33 Skyline has prevented me from taking this path. If I can't say it enough, I want this to be something that common man can see and forever have the image of - burned on his retina - for all eternity. I am therefore seeking your collective opinion and invaluable advice concerning my project. Should you be unable to fulfill my requirements, perhaps you could lead me to the path that will take me there. Your correspondence would be a blessing.

Yours sincerely,

Troll.

Man i pissed myself laughing hahaha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...