Jump to content
SAU Community

Precision Billet Turbos

R32GTR/Iceland
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Get rid of existing and get braided from the turbo to the block. Personally I would get something custom made from somewhere like Enzed (well actually I make my own lines using Speedflow gear, but I assume you're not game to try that?). But plenty of people on here seem to be using the Kando lines with no problems.

  • Replies 3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

SimonR32
SimonR32

The 6262 sillyness is never ending... New cams just got the most power and torque it's ever made

SimonR32
SimonR32
Mick_o
Mick_o

Dale is 100% correct its a well proven fact that smaller cams in RB's aid in response. Even going from a stock cam to a type b pon cam will cost you response. Been many track guys that have thrown the

Posted Images

PJ. Proficient

PJ.

Posted
Posted

FYI both 6262 and 6266 are rated as 700HP items. I'd be chasing that 66 CEA item, better tech is where its at.

The 6262 is 700hp and 6266 is 735hp.

Don't be fooled by the CEA crap, the wheel sizes have an influence over response, and the 6262 is more responsive.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

It might be that the 62mm wheel is more responsive, but by how much? You can see that the CEA wheel has better blade design and would be an overall lighter rotating assembly. Im also confident the 66mm wheel would flow a metric shit load more.

If you were going 3L down the track I can see that the 66 mil would make for an intensely fast car.. but yeah I can accept 4mm in turbine exducer isn't anything to scoff at.

rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks hanaldo, I will look at the lines a bit, sorry for the spam on the Precision thread but did you end up re-tuning your G3 again/ killawasps?

Edited by rondofj
PJ. Proficient

PJ.

Posted
Posted

On my car I have had a 6265, 6765,6766 and 7175. I have witnessed a 150rpm difference between a 6262 and 6265, hardly noticable, but there was also a couple of hundred revs between the 65 and 66 turbine wheels on my own car.

Yes it picked up 30hp atw but the point I was trying to make was, PTE marketed the same if not better response between the CEA wheel replacement wheels of the 65. Maybe that is the case with identical sized wheels, but from my experience not a bigger CEA vs smaller wheel. You can physically see the difference in the thickness of the older wheels.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

On my car I have had a 6265, 6765,6766 and 7175. I have witnessed a 150rpm difference between a 6262 and 6265, hardly noticable, but there was also a couple of hundred revs between the 65 and 66 turbine wheels on my own car.

Yes it picked up 30hp atw but the point I was trying to make was, PTE marketed the same if not better response between the CEA wheel replacement wheels of the 65. Maybe that is the case with identical sized wheels, but from my experience not a bigger CEA vs smaller wheel. You can physically see the difference in the thickness of the older wheels.

It's funny that a 3 mm larger wheel with a 62 mm front was only 150 but 1 extra mm on a 67 was alot more noticable. Hmm.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

got to remember that its 1mm on the exducer but they dont tell us what they have changed on the inducer. Could be a way larger wheel in a smaller trim... or could be a smaller wheel in a larger trim. Who knows..

PJ did you ever dismantle yours to measure the inducer on the turbine side? I have always wondered why PT dont farking advertise those figures. With the smaller stuff I had a feeling they kept it to themselves because the numbers would match up to older tech T3/T4 based things. Bad for business when your marketing 'new tech'. Obviously we know overall measurements are not the be all and end all, but it would certainly raise the question.

PJ. Proficient

PJ.

Posted
Posted

Yes we did, and you could be onto something there :whistling: either way they worked and worked well!

It would be interesting to back to back a CEA of the same size, but after spending 10 grand of my own money on Precision turbo's, I might leave it for one of you boys to step up :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...