Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why have I been thinking you both had the .82 v band rear?

I think it's partly because of the numbers you put out I must of just assumed...

So what is the go with a .63 5558 compared to a 3076r in terms of compressor and turbine wheels then? Because it seems to put out very similar numbers to a .82 3076r

Well 280-290kw with full boost at 4000rpm isn't too shabby for a JB turbo, though no better than a Kando T67 in spool and a bit concerning if IATs are getting unacceptable. Sounds to me like the Kando would be a better unit for this kind of setup, though the ball bearing unit would no doubt be quite a bit nicer.

True, I don't think anyone is punting a T67 on the stock manifold. The comp housing is too large from what I know.

I have to say though the result from Kurtis is really nice. Spool is mega and so is power, but it needs to be said hes on a high mount and E85. The T67 is probably better off at the level Ron is at (with a cheap highmount) but the 5558 would be better in terms of contingency.

Not to rub anything in to anyone, but we all did say 'buy a hypergear' about a million times lol.

What do you mean by contigency, JD?

Contingency planning in case Ron gets bored of his current power I mean. The 5558 seems better matched to the highmount and E85 slurping setup that he would probably move to from there, based on the result from Kurtis which seemed to be very responsive whilst making its 360kw.

Kurtis car has a very linear power curve on the street, when he took me for a run in it, even on high boost it would hardly brake traction.

It came on very low in the rev range, and pulled smoothly all the way to redline. Not like a laggy single setup or twin setup which has the nothing nothing nothing and than bam it ramps on hard wheel spins all over the road, than bogs down when u kick it up the next gear.

Long story dude...had a friend of a friend mini tub it..car went missing and shit stolen and paint f**ked(it was a new paintjob already)

I had all the dodgyness fixed/ retubbed/ 4link/cage fitted and my mate that painted it the first time...has fixed and repainted it for FREE...(instead of another 5G), so i can't complain..

Not like i havn't seen it..lol, my mate lives on a farm and has his workshop and booth there..haha

..Turbos a Gt45 frame , its a discontinued turbo..you havn't been able to get them for 3-4yrs..hence me taking 2 yrs to find one in the U.S. checking google every week..was a headf**k to buy and get here

Edited by jet_r31

Kurtis car has a very linear power curve on the street, when he took me for a run in it, even on high boost it would hardly brake traction.

It came on very low in the rev range, and pulled smoothly all the way to redline. Not like a laggy single setup or twin setup which has the nothing nothing nothing and than bam it ramps on hard wheel spins all over the road, than bogs down when u kick it up the next gear.

Boost leak has been fixed since then Deano, the bov he installed was poo. Was leaking at 1 psi with the smoke test.

But yes its a nice linear power curve not a lag monster

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...