Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 351
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Just an update so you guys know whats going on. I'm just waiting on a response from the supplier for the full address of the account holder and the full address of the bank the money is going into. Apparantely Australia has pretty tight security for international money transfers and just the bank account details are not enough. Hopefully they reply today so I can put the money through.

Sorry for the slight delay guys.

Lol its going to be another 30 kits in the next bloody group buy looks like it.

As an update guys, they have received our money transfer and the kits will be sent out to me some time next week once all the kits have been made up. I have purchased all the express post envelopes so as soon as they are sent to me i'll send them out.

Cheers

If they don't fit I bags them!! :(

Will be happy to pay what you paid for em + postage if you are down with that.

Sure mate :(

Thanks Basho!

Look forward to receiving them PM-R33 :(

hey pm r33, i know your gonna be busy with finishing this group buy off and personal life.... but you got a rough idea when your gonna be able to start another group buy and maybe try to get the braided clutch kits as well as braided brake lines to?

As long as the supplier doesn't have a problem with it I can do another one straight after this one ends; once every one in this group buy receives their kits and is happy with them.

So at a guess the next group buy could be in about 2-3 weeks possibly. The main thing I want to ensure is everything goes smoothly, there aren't any problems and people are happy with the kits. So as long as all that falls into place, i'll do another one straight away for the clutch lines and brake lines.

Edited by PM-R33

No news yet, but it is only the start of the week. I'll give them an email tomorrow to see how it's all coming along and where we are at.

WOW, you handled this awesome Phil!!! Count me in for next buy for a clutch line!!!

i've dealt with Phil before this guys and he's nothing short of perfect to deal with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...