Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 351
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yep Dot3 is the standard and anything above is just a higher boiling point.

Just a heads up for guys with ABS equipped R33/R34's. I just posted this up in the DIY thread regarding a small problem.

So I took the car for a spin and the brake pedal feel is soft as hell lol. As in there is about half of the pedal travel doing nothing.

I bled the system again and there is no air in the brake lines themselves, however my car has ABS and on the R33s (unlike the R32s) there are no bleed screws on the ABS module. My understanding with this is a special ABS scan tool is required to properly bleed the ABS so I will go see some one this week to try and get the ABS bled properly.

This is a very common problem with R33/R34's that have ABS and there appears to be hundreds of threads on very soft brake pedals. So I'm assuming it's because people get air into the ABS unit and then never bleed it properly.

Will report back on this to see how it goes after the ABS bleed.

Edited by PM-R33

Dammit, that probably rules out installing them myself lol... Where can you take it to get the ABS bled properly, any mechanic? Or gotta be a brake specialist?

You can still install everything yourself, the car still brakes fine. Also every car may be different and maybe you won't get as much air into the ABS.

I did a bit of quick reading on the net and a lot of modern ABS equipped cars need an ABS scan tool used to cycle the ABS solenoids to bleed the air or some shit. R32's have bleed nipples on the ABS which makes it easy, ours don't unfortunately and judging by the amount of threads on "spongy brake pedal" i'm assuming a lot of people don't get the ABS bled.

I'm going to call a couple of places during the week, every dealership (Nissan) or brake specialist should be able to bleed the ABS so i'll see how I go.

Qoute I found:

You need the drb (or suitable off brand scan tool) to bleed your abs for a reason. The scan tool cycles the solenoids and pump during the bleed process that forces air out of the hydraulic assembly, solenoids and actuators. Not to mention it will also release the pressure in the system to begin with.

You cannot bleed your brakes without a scan tool. peroid.

Take it to the dealer, and pay them to do it right. Should only cost you 1 hour labor, as that is what I charged customers when I worked at the Chrysler dealer. Today's abs systems have a lot going on, and should not be messed with by anyone not qualified to do so.

Edited by PM-R33

Hmm ok so I saw one place and they were like yep air in the ABS can be the cause and should be bled and then another place said there is no way air could be trapped in the ABS to cause a soft pedal so I dunno :)

I might just crack the ABS lines open and try and bleed it manually to see if any air comes out. I don't get why Skyline brakes are so soft. I nearly go through the windscreen every time I brake in the girlfriends Mazda 3 due to the brake pedal being so responsive to the slightest touch.

lol i didnt know you could get air in the ABS unit, ive bled my brakes like 4 times, changed BM as well and still have a soft pedal feel.

perhaps try looking up the FSM and see what it says?

got mine today thanks phil...

No worries man, glad it rocked up to you. Wasn't sure how long it would take to PNG.

lol i didnt know you could get air in the ABS unit, ive bled my brakes like 4 times, changed BM as well and still have a soft pedal feel.

perhaps try looking up the FSM and see what it says?

I got them back to normal, bled the lines coming in and out of the ABS unit and bled the lines coming out of the master cylinder. There must have a been some air trapped somewhere. All good now :whistling:

I felt a mates brakes tonight (non ABS GTST) and his pedal is a lot softer than mine.

I did notice one thing when I pulled my master cylinder off to inspect it, is the pushrod that comes out of the brake booster into the master cylinder adjustable? It has a thread on it and kind of looks like you can shorten/lengthen it. If you could lengthen it maybe you could get rid of that initial softness of the brake pedal. Any one got any input into that? I just really would love to get the brake pedal to feel still like other modern cars I have felt.

The initial softness must come from the pushrod in the brake booster having a large gap infront of it prior to making a force on the master cylinder no?

EDIT:BINGO! Found what I was talking about. Read this, could this be the way to overcome the soft Skyline pedal?

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylin...adjustment.html

I discovered that one turn of the pushrod was worth approximately 6mm at the pedal. I ended up turning the rod clockwise 1.5 turns, which removed about 8mm of free play at the pedal.
Edited by PM-R33

Ok guys well it appears this Group Buy has been successfully completed, thank you all for sticking with me through it.

If you have any questions feel free to PM me and if any issues occur in the future just contact Hel and qoute them your unique warranty ID#.

Thanks again :woot:

Phil

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...