Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

ive got my bloody hicas light coming on after about 10 or so mins of driving on my R32 GTR

it has an aftermarket steering wheel, and the diagnosic test said this is the problem..

my question is how do i get to the steering angle sensor ? i know its behind the steering wheel but what does it look like?

anybody have photos or a step by step guide on how get to it?

also when i do get to it, what needs to be done to it, what do i clean? align ? etc

sorry about all the questions but its driving my crazy !!

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314341-steering-angle-sensor/
Share on other sites

was it doing it before the aftermarket wheel? if your aftermarket steerng wheel is causing the problem, check that you have got a proper hicas boss kit.

i dont know if there's any maintenance you can do on the angle sensor. i guess check for dry solder joints on the circuit board, and maybe blow it out wih compressed air for good measure?

this is what mine looks like. from a S1 r33 with no airbag.

it sits behind the steering column shroud. easy to take out once you have the wheel and shroud off. just 4 screws and a plug

post-29392-1269941781_thumb.jpg post-29392-1269941829_thumb.jpg

thanks mate !

i bought it with a nardi steering wheel, so i didnt touch it....i dont think it has a boss kit? arnt boss kits so you can remove ur steering wheel? the steering wheel is not removable its bolted on

i will sus it out anywayz, make sure everything is cleaned up

can you align the discs on the angle sensor? are they markings on the discs that i should take note of?

no you cant align it. the stock steering wheel, or an appropriate boss kit, will have holes in the back of it to accommodate the arms sticking out of the angle sensor. when you turn your wheel, the sensor turns with it.

thats how i understand it anyway.

also, yes you do have a boss kit. your nardi wheel is bolted to it with 6 bolts around the horn button. the boss kit is what attaches your wheel to your steering column.

  • 4 weeks later...

just read on previous posts that the hicas light will go on if the brake fluid is low on R32's ? i just realised mine is disconnected ?! where does it go, cant seem to find the place to plug it into !! so the connector is just hanging there ?

i think the brake fluid container has recently been changed, maybe for compliance?

what to do hmmmm

  • 6 years later...

thought i would revive an old thread. cant seem to find what i need to find searching.

im fitting a nardi wheel with a saas bosskit which has the holes to properly house the two plastic parts for the steering sensor.

the bosskit has 2 sets of universal holes for different wheels to adapt, for my wheel to align it is on a 30deg (ish) angle to the locators. this is easy to fix as i just turn the locator to suit keeping the wheel aligned with the spline.

 

will this cause issues with the steering sensor and hicas? does this need to be inline with the spline or does this just start locating electronically on start up in relation to where it started from?

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...