Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R31 nismoid is making around 300kw and has a legal exhaust, my car is 92db and makes over 300kw.

ask an exhaust place to make you up an exhaust with the biggest straight through mufflers they can fit.

R31 nismoid is making around 300kw and has a legal exhaust, my car is 92db and makes over 300kw.

ask an exhaust place to make you up an exhaust with the biggest straight through mufflers they can fit.

Awesome, I heard magnaflow muffler are the quietest, any others?

cheers

The Kakimoto Regu and Trust PE2 are the quieter exhausts out of the Jap ones, im sure there are others.

Or like has been mentioned get an exhaust shop to make you one. My friends 700hp 25/30 sounds stock. 4inch dump with 3 1/2 exhaust with big mufflers.

Yes it's possible...

I'm just over legal, ~91dB with a 3.5" exhaust (it'll be good for 350rwkw). 3" can be made legal, plenty of people have done that on the forum.

My mufflers are fully custom (hand made) etc. So it wasn't cheap, but then to keep the fuzz outta your hair these are the measures we have get to today :woot:

There are some off shelf Jap ones that are under, I'm not sure what their names are though.

Basically just get a custom 3" made and have 2x the biggest possible mufflers installed + 4" cat. Should sort you out.

to put things into perspective, im making 250rwkw now and might be increasing to about 280 soon,

I have a 3" turbo back exhaust atm, I was thinking of leavin the first section of the exhaust as is and maybe having a 3.5" catback made up implementing the largest 2 mufflers, that way the extra 0.5" diaemeter will make up for the restriction of the mufflers......

Anyone know any exhaust shops in inner melbourne that could look after me?

cheers

280rwkw = 3" is fine.

Straight through mufflers really should not post much restriction at all mate, so i'm not sure what you mean about the extra half inch alleviating restriction...

280rwkw = 3" is fine.

Straight through mufflers really should not post much restriction at all mate, so i'm not sure what you mean about the extra half inch alleviating restriction...

I thought that the mufflers may restrict so gotta increase diaemeter...

Who should i head to for this in melb inner suburbs ??

Well they do restrict, but you ain't talking massive amounts mate.

280rwkw you need -

1x 3" piping, mandrel bent. A little bends through the system as possible

2x 3" straight through mufflers, largest possible you can get under the car

1x 4-4.5" Hi-Flow cat

Just get it done in mild steel and it'll be nice and cheap. Turbos make enough heat to keep rust @ bay.

As for where to get it done - NFI mate, i don't use anyone inner city.

Personally I think the greatest gains are from being larger in the first 1/3 to 1/2 of the exhaust system .

The gasses are pretty hot out of the turbo on full load so giving them some volume to expand into seems to work .

The gasses cool and contract (increase in density) quite quickly and you can afford to go a bit smaller in tube size toward the rear half of the exhaust system . Usually the cat and mufflers are back there anyway so 3.25 or 3" mufflers should be reasonably easy to fit .

Cheers A .

Well they do restrict, but you ain't talking massive amounts mate.

280rwkw you need -

1x 3" piping, mandrel bent. A little bends through the system as possible

2x 3" straight through mufflers, largest possible you can get under the car

1x 4-4.5" Hi-Flow cat

Just get it done in mild steel and it'll be nice and cheap. Turbos make enough heat to keep rust @ bay.

As for where to get it done - NFI mate, i don't use anyone inner city.

Ok, why the 4.5" cat? cant i just retain my 3" high flow cat?

CAT's are restrictive. Just have a look @ em :woot:

Such tight honeycomb blocks are the enemy of good flow... so hence get a larger CAT and help the process along.

Car is still legal and emissions will be good so there is no real downside.

I would hedge a bet that if you had a 3" hi-flow cat on there and then dropped it for the next dyno run - you'd see a power increase :D

Hell even with my 4.5" CAT i can feel a difference in or out... It's not a massive difference but it's noticeable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...