Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

what do people know about the various mixes of e85 from the different companies? I get the green 'sucrogen' stuff and at about 2.50/L it aint cheap. it apparently has the most consisent and best mix of ethanol with high octane petroleum. for instance, the castrol product is note as high an octane rating??

I understand some varieties of e85 have lower octane mixes which could be nasty on certain tunes.

yeah there is a wide variety in the currently available mixes. If you have tuned it aggresively I would stick to the same stuff it was tuned for. But for my use a less aggressive tune and $1/l is more important that a little more power at $2.5+/l. It is still cheap compared to most race fuels though

what do people know about the various mixes of e85 from the different companies? I get the green 'sucrogen' stuff and at about 2.50/L it aint cheap. it apparently has the most consisent and best mix of ethanol with high octane petroleum. for instance, the castrol product is note as high an octane rating??

I understand some varieties of e85 have lower octane mixes which could be nasty on certain tunes.

I would be interested to know what the new caltex pump e85 is supposed to be like

The stuff at Rozelle (United, on pump) seems to have been pretty consistent for me over the last few months.

i use the Manildra made Powerplus E85 - high octane rating than the United CSR, definitely a better fuel - had to tweak the tune between the two, same for a mate of mine as well. Tuner said on both cars, the Manildra one was better.

Martin, just have a question if you don't mind. Have you even done a teardown on an E85 run engine yet?? Curious to know if there has been anything out of the ordinary etc

and what oil do you use again?

2 things I have learnt recently with E85 that you guys might like to know.

E85 has a particularly short shelf life. Unfortunately I cannot recal the exact figures or terms yet within weeks the mixture sepparates and the fuel goes off. You will have a drum with 2 compounds completely sepperate from eachother, sort of like oil floating on water.

This would be relevant to storing the fuel in drums..

The other issue with this is that the fuel is prone to absorbing water, if left to sit for a while the breather on your tank can absorb enough water over the coarse of a few weeks to have your next turn of the key pump straight water through your rail.

Issue 2; more so an interest thing rather than a precaution. The points for max torque on a lean mixture vs a rich mixture are very wide. I believe the people running FAT injectors are generally going for the rich max for peak torque yet there is also a point on the opposite end of the spectrum where combustion temps and detonation arent an issue.

This could see us using much smaller injectors if this theory was explored a little more in depth.

Food for thought.

My 25 was pulled down about a week ago. Everything was alot cleaner than an unleaded run engine. Only had a slight dark grey powder on top of the pistons which i could wipe off.

Bearings were perfect.

how many k's did you do on the 25 with E85? much track time?

and mind if i ask what oil you were using?

Hmmm intresting comments.

I've seen e85 stored for months in steel drums with out a problem. The trick is to keep it sealed as yes it does soak up moisture very quickly if left unsealed.

I also know a guy who tested the ethanol content of e85 from various sources at various times and it varied from a bit over 85% down to 60%... Not so good. The best bet is to buy e100 in drums, still only $1 per litre, and mix it yourself, or run it straight!

BTW, i hope to be tuning an R35 in a month or so, and i'll definatly be suggesting to use E85. I'll let you know how it goes!

maybe contact Manildra bout that Steve.

The Fueltown servo here in Melb that has the manildra E85 has E100 available in drums as some customers are mixing their own.

I'm not sure if Fueltown gets E85 delivered or just mixes their own with E100 deliveries.

yeah, the E% can vary quite a bit, 60 - 92% apparently, but i don't know if that applies here in Oz though, i reckon between CSR and Manildra, you're going to get at least 85, pretty sure i got an assurance from the fueltown guy bout that

I run my R34 GTR on E85 and we make 940hp on 37psi. On 98 octane we made just under 600hp on 23psi.

We are also tuning a customers R35 GTR on E85 in the coming weeks, so I will be sure to post up the results!

what a massive gain!

what turbo setup u running?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...