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Hi Guys,

Im getting a stock R33 for a very cheap price and was just wondering what kind of work and what amount of money is required for it to keep up to or even beat a stock R34 GTR vspec out in the open road and 1/4 mile as well.

I will be removing all unnecessary items such as rear seats, ac, etc and running light weight wheels and semi slicks.

Im getting the R33 for around 10 and if i spend around 30, will it be possible? Im not too worried about the 1/4 because i want it to be reliable as well.

Thanks.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317854-r34-gtr-vspec-2-nur-vs-r33-gtst/
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I'm not going to answer this directly.. and i really hope no one else does either....

Dude, this question is really daft... i mean REALLY daft....

Sit down... look up the differences between the two cars, weight, engine, drivetrain suspension etc etc and do the maths.

the answers are all obvious, and by thinking about it yourself you wont look like the kind of newb who jumps on a forum and for his first post asks how to make a cheap midrange skyline go faster in all conditions to a top of the line skyline...

ooh... wait... too late.

R33 GTR for 10k... does it come with everything to make it run ??? and does it still have the finger print dust on it or has it been detailed ??

nope not gtr, its a r33 gtst he is getting for 10k.

if you are getting a car for 10k and putting in 30k in it why not just buy a really clean r33gtr for around 25k, then you still have some left over for mods.

I'm not going to answer this directly.. and i really hope no one else does either....

Dude, this question is really daft... i mean REALLY daft....

Sit down... look up the differences between the two cars, weight, engine, drivetrain suspension etc etc and do the maths.

the answers are all obvious, and by thinking about it yourself you wont look like the kind of newb who jumps on a forum and for his first post asks how to make a cheap midrange skyline go faster in all conditions to a top of the line skyline...

ooh... wait... too late.

come on guys lets for once help this noob out. What you are trying to achieve is not impossible and actually very easy with the right mods. First get a milo can and cut a hole in the bottom of it and slip it over your stock exhaust tip, fastening it with twist ties from an old bread packet for light weight. Secondly your goin to need some power so head down to auto barn and get yourself some nos brand octane booster and double the recommended amount, this should give you roughly 1000 chw's (chicken-watts) as no one talks in kilowatts any more. Should you feel you need more though the usual suspects like mugen stickers and neons should get you where you wanna be power wise. Then thirdly and possibly most importantly you need to lower your car for better wind resistance, by removing 2 inches of spring from your factory coils (companies spend millions on developing these springs so no point actually changing them). Then finally you will require down force for all the new mods, if your on a budget id suggest ockey straping your mums ironing board to your boot should help. With there mods you should easily dispose of any gtr and exotic supercar that should cross your path. Cheers adam

yeah but 30k into a gtst would give it more punch over a standard r33 and r34 gtr. To out run the gtr a gtst wouldn't need many mods at all. Take out the seats, spare wheel, Highflow turbo anywhere over 16psi, bigger intercooler, free flowing exhaust and you'll be outrunning stock gtr's (only just and it also depends on how fresh your motor is). Thats all I need for my series 2 to beat an r33 gtr on a rolling drag from 60km/hr. The GTR will always get the better start with its AWD from a standing start. that being said a gtr with the same mods mentioned and with standard turbos pushing only a little extra psi would absolutely demolish that same gtst.

But i agree with Messiah, it is a stupid comparison, it all depends on what type of handling you want from the car.

Oh edit: if forgot aftermarket ecu and tune will come in handy lol

come on guys lets for once help this noob out. What you are trying to achieve is not impossible and actually very easy with the right mods. First get a milo can and cut a hole in the bottom of it and slip it over your stock exhaust tip, fastening it with twist ties from an old bread packet for light weight. Secondly your goin to need some power so head down to auto barn and get yourself some nos brand octane booster and double the recommended amount, this should give you roughly 1000 chw's (chicken-watts) as no one talks in kilowatts any more. Should you feel you need more though the usual suspects like mugen stickers and neons should get you where you wanna be power wise. Then thirdly and possibly most importantly you need to lower your car for better wind resistance, by removing 2 inches of spring from your factory coils (companies spend millions on developing these springs so no point actually changing them). Then finally you will require down force for all the new mods, if your on a budget id suggest ockey straping your mums ironing board to your boot should help. With there mods you should easily dispose of any gtr and exotic supercar that should cross your path. Cheers adam

lol

what kind of noob buys a 33gtst for 10k then spends 30k on it

10k + 30k = 40k = R34 GTR, just save and buy the real thing

But a R33 with 30k in it will be lots more fun to drive, It wont look as good ect but for that kind of budget you could have somthing with over 300rwkw, great brakes and great suspension. So it really depends on what he intends to do with it. If it was a daily driver and occasional fun car i would, like you say, choose the 34, but if it was track ect i would rather have the modded 33

Id rather a stock R34 GTR over ANY R33 GTS-t you could buy/build for same price.

We had a R34 GTR here at CRD with exhaust, drop in cams, injectors, pump, Power FC and Dash-7 turbos.....350kW @ wheels all day everyday on stock internals, engine bay looks stock and very responsive and driveable.

A 350rwkW GTS-t would not keep up and would not be very driveable in comparison

If you actually have 40K in total then buy the real deal. At least if you sell it, you'll get some money back too. With the GTS-t you wont

Wow this place really is in a downward spiral.

How on earth are people expected to benefit from the collective knowledge of these forums and the people on them, when they come in here, most likely already having done their own calculations, looking for some real world experiences with highly modified 33 GTS-T's - only to get shot down in flames as a "newb".

He didn't come in here sayin dis n dat yo wot man cuz - maybe a little green in the way the question was asked but man - lighten up or just don't post. Your big flame posts clog up the database just as much if not more than people asking green questions.

I have seen some really highly modified R33 GTS25t's, handling really well, gobs of power, only major problem is traction in comparison to GTR's mostly off the line - but hey their is a whole planet of people devoted to making RWD work well, so do what you can, buy the best tyres you can get and it will be competitive.

paul what you are failing to see is week in week out people asking if they put a tea towel and a paper clip into theyre car if they will beat a bugatti veyron. Step back and look at the question again. Will a run of the mill 33gtst beat the second best gtr (the spec 2 nur) ever built

Hi Guys,

Im getting a stock R33 for a very cheap price and was just wondering what kind of work and what amount of money is required for it to keep up to or even beat a stock R34 GTR vspec out in the open road and 1/4 mile as well.

I will be removing all unnecessary items such as rear seats, ac, etc and running light weight wheels and semi slicks.

Im getting the R33 for around 10 and if i spend around 30, will it be possible? Im not too worried about the 1/4 because i want it to be reliable as well.

Thanks.

LOL!

Stock for stock the R34 GTR V-Spec II Nur will ass rape the R33 GTS-T.

If you dump $30K into the GTS-T VS stock Nur, you will beat it for sure...

If someone dumped $30K on a Nur VS stock GTS-T, the Nur will win.

All depends on how big your wallet is.

Why don't you just buy a R32 or R33 GTR if you are going to spend $40K all up?

buy 32 gtr stock for 18k.

put 22k onto that.

everyones a winner.

but let's be realistic. If you had $30k to blow on mods, you wouldn't be on here asking about how to do up a cheap gtst. No one who was able to save up $30k on their own would waste it on doing up a gtst. They'd have more brains.

You'd be out there buying a 33gtr with minor mods.

Or you'd keep the $40k you have and you'd invest it in something worthwhile.

Or maybe you mean you can afford $10k now, and if you were to keep putting money into the gtst in a few years you may have spent $30 k on it. By that time your mate with the 34 gtr will have sold his car and won't care about the future drag race you are planning.

don't blow 30k on an old gts-t. it will never be a gtr

I dont see any mention of a paper clip or tea towel in the question - and if there is who cares - doesnt mean you should treat people with such contempt just because you are hiding behind a keyboard. I am on here as much as you guys but it doesnt ruin my day if someone asks a silly question. Maybe he just wants to hang and talk about shit that interests him? No crime in that.

Step back and look at the question again.

Dont think I could be any more stepped back if I tried mate. All I see is someone asking a legitimate question regardless of how mundane some might find it. He posted in the right section, he was polite.

Will a run of the mill 33gtst beat the second best gtr (the spec 2 nur) ever built

The OP didn't ask that - and it makes you look foolish to rewrite the question in such a way. A run of the mill gtst does not have 30k spent on it? I would see 30k as an almost complete track prep if you do lots of the work yourself - leave out a cage to save weight and it will be a killer.

While it may shock some - a stock GTR, NUR or otherwise, is actually pretty slow, and in standard form likely to blow motors due to oiling problems on the track. Turn up the boost on those NUR -7 turbos for a bit of extra poke and you are asking for more problems.

If I were sticking money on which one would tear up the track day in day out I know where my money would be...

ZW33 - go ahead mate - buy it, spend 30k on it - learn a heap about it, increase your knowledge and ignore people with nothing to contribute to discussion, and nothing better to do than flame.

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