Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 9 months later...

anyone ever find a part number for these? or an appropriate aftermarket unit?

You'd be better getting a strut Re-gas guy to measure up and obtain something suitable.

The issue will be the door end, as the bracket & ball is permanently affixed.

Is there a reason yours can't be regassed?

There a few places online where you can buy custom Struts, you give them the measurements and weights and what ends the struts need and they will make them up. (most if not all the stagea's have ball joint ends, fairly common)

Im sure if we get a few people interested we could see about a group buy with a strut making company....

  • 4 months later...

There a few places online where you can buy custom Struts, you give them the measurements and weights and what ends the struts need and they will make them up. (most if not all the stagea's have ball joint ends, fairly common)

Im sure if we get a few people interested we could see about a group buy with a strut making company....

I processor detective work in the dark in the garage in the morning. I took the gas spring to the desktop and I did the measurements and I found using Google the UK company that produces the desired gas spring lifting force. I examine the dimensions in the manufacturer's pages and I got to the shopping cart products:

http://www.sgs-engineering.com

_img900.jpg

Original gas strut includes a coarse threaded ball sockets so I have to buy new ball sockets with M8 thread. Also original gas strut is 1125N and i planned to order 1150N.

Gas spring original body length is 14 cm and a stroke length of 9cm so the total length of 23cm. This means that the GS10-22-100-150 will not physically fit in the car (gas strut body strikes to strut support iron when the backdoor is closed). This means that the manufacturer's catalog contains one of the appropriate gas spring GS10-22-70-120. This product is a body length of 2cm too short and the stroke length is also 2cm too short! This place is more suitable for shorter, with larger gas strut rear door can not be closed. If we replace B10 to B11 which is 6 mm longer so stroke length difference is now 14mm. So, the end result will be the door several centimeters lower.

My friend works at the selling company that imports the original STABILUS gas struts to Finland. I'll put him in the query that he have time to work on the sidejob to take a look availabilities and prices of original and possibly the bolt-on parts.

Now a moment to sleep. Whether others found other options?

  • Like 1

Guys, i have found the original STABILUS number for OEM lifts. They are 095303

http://www.klee.dk/en/products/linear-motion-technology/gas-springs-lift-o-mat/04095303/

for you this should be OK) near 30 USD + shipping

Edited by Erop
  • Like 2
  • 5 months later...

Guys, i have found the original STABILUS number for OEM lifts. They are 095303

http://www.klee.dk/en/products/linear-motion-technology/gas-springs-lift-o-mat/04095303/

for you this should be OK) near 30 USD + shipping

Can you (or anyone) confirm that these are correct? As it doesn't match exactly with what I have in my car.

Dragon92, If that is for an M35, please post up the part number.

K250-22-1135n

$35 each

(Helps when i know the guy i got them from)

I also ordered a 10mm add on otherwise the boot wouldn't open as far.

Edited by Dragon92
  • 1 year later...

No idea if you guys have found suitable replacements in OZ/NZ for your M35 Stagea tailgate and boot floor struts but I've just managed to order some new ones from SGS engineering in the UK. Cost about £100 / approx 160 AUD for all 4 struts.

 

Will let you know how I get on when they arrive!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi John

Yeah I still have the invoice - the part codes on it are:

 

GS10-22-100-150 Gas strut

B10 10mm metal ball socket

B3 10mm angled plastic ball socket

 

GS8-18-100-140 gas strut

B1 10mm plastic ball socket

 

Not sure which is which strut but I can take a look if you're only wanting to order the boot struts for example.

 

 

Edited by gazman2
  • 1 year later...

Hi Gazman2

Did you install those GS10-22-100-150 gas struts to your Stagea? I have those same struts and I'm trying to

put those to my 2001 Stagea 300rx... How did you install those cause I'm having trouble because struts are

so strong ( seems that they might fit if there is a way to pull the strut rod inside couple of centimeters when installing )

Has anyone here actually installed those GS struts to Stagea?? Or are they simply not for Stageas...

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...