Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Full Name: Jeremy Coe (username JMKC)

Car Type: z4 m coupe

Newb or not: not..

Most recent lap time if not newb (can be another track if necessary but make sure you mention which one):1.16ish

# of Drivers: 1

# of Passengers & Name: tba

money transferred.

  • Replies 566
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Doobs,

Do you own the slick black R33 GTST? Yeah I own the gunmetal grey R32 GTR V-spec with the proper (poxy) BBS alloys. Sorry I haven't replied direct to your message but I haven't got up 10 posts yet... also I'm a bit computer illiterate! Hope to see you at the track on the 17th.

Cheers, Ben

Full Name: Matt Cass

Car Type: Hopefully a R33 GTS-t

Newb or not: Epic newb

Most recent lap time if not newb (can be another track if necessary but make sure you mention which one): NFI, around the 1'14" mark I guess... I really need to get to a timed day lol

# of Drivers: 1

# of Passengers & Name: Zero ATM, may drag someone along :P

Full Name: mark joung

Car Type: 370z

Newb or not: newb

Most recent lap time: 1:15.5

# of Drivers: 1

# of Passengers & Name: 0

$200 payment sent! looking forward to meeting you guys

370z!!!!!!! Omg if you see me quietly fapping over your car please excuse me....... i can't wait to see one of these on the track!

Glad you're on board Mark and come say hi!!!! Well i might actually come say hi to you, and perhaps hop in for a passenger session :(

don't put the handbrake on when you park it after a session :blush: don't want cooked brake fluid.

Having the handbrake on after a session on the track won't be the thing that boils your brake fluid. It may very well fuse your handbrakes to your rotor and/or warp said rotor though :blush:

Best option is to put a choc under a wheel, that way you can't hurt anything that has warmed up...

Yep, and when choosing a choc, those huge Toblerones are the correct size and shape!

311_gr.jpg

:blush::blush:

Best option by far is what Dan just said.....

Just bring along a couple bits of small timber with you and lay they down in your car spot, 1 at the back to roll up against and 1 at the front to roll over and keep you in position. This way you can leave the car in neutral, no brakes at all and let it cool down/leave running for 5 minutes after a session.

Also a big tip, on the cool down lap (in lap), don't go slow!!! 1 reason is it slows up the next session getting out BUT most importantly you need to maintain a safe speed to feed cool air into the engine bay, brakes ect etc to cool it down. So don't back right off! Helps reduce heat soak :blush:

Old sports socks over all reservoirs is also a bonza trick!! Just make sure it is secured by a cable tie or very tightly wrapped around it!!

Hey Doobs,

Do you own the slick black R33 GTST? Yeah I own the gunmetal grey R32 GTR V-spec with the proper (poxy) BBS alloys. Sorry I haven't replied direct to your message but I haven't got up 10 posts yet... also I'm a bit computer illiterate! Hope to see you at the track on the 17th.

Cheers, Ben

Yeah that's the one. I might come down to watch as the car isn't quite reassembled for track work yet.

Best option by far is what Dan just said.....

Just bring along a couple bits of small timber with you and lay they down in your car spot, 1 at the back to roll up against and 1 at the front to roll over and keep you in position. This way you can leave the car in neutral, no brakes at all and let it cool down/leave running for 5 minutes after a session.

Old sports socks over all reservoirs is also a bonza trick!! Just make sure it is secured by a cable tie or very tightly wrapped around it!!

The garages at Wakey are pretty flat anyway, I find my car sits pretty sweet without leaving it in gear or with the handbrake up. Chocs can't hurt for an extra bit of insurance though :blush:

Full Name: Alex King

Car Type: Evo VIII

Newb or not: not

Most recent lap time: 1:08.5 (Over 12 Months Ago - Have not tracked for a while)

# of Drivers: 1

# of Passengers & Name: 1 - Stephen King

$220 payment sent! looking forward to meeting you guys

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...