Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How many of you have used this app before?

is it accurate enough or is it just that its accurate enough for its price?

How much of a difference does it make if you enter the wrong weight into it? Since it wants you to account for luggage, petrol and passengers i doubt I could be spot on.

Do you have to keep going until you hit a certain speed for it to work?

If I just took it from 0-100 on a country road would that give me the readings?

Any information about it would be helpful, I want to be able to take these figures as not off by much and use this app to compare some of my mates cars with mine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319226-pocket-dyno/
Share on other sites

well i put that app on my gf's gayphone. i pressed start. i shook the phone around, and apparently.... i ran an 8 second quarter mile.

not bad huh?

it equated to something like 1100hp ... at the elbow!

Edited by Munkyb0y
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319226-pocket-dyno/#findComment-5214420
Share on other sites

Dont get any of the cheapo rubbish apps, they are beyond crap. I've got Dynolicious for the Ipod touch, its on the blackberry too. Works brilliantly well, i've always got the right sorts of figures with mine, an american car magazine compared it with a G-Tech (purpose built accelerometer measuring tool) and found it to be more accurate. They also took a car to the track and found the rwkw on the app was within 3kw of the actual dyno figure.

Remember with all accelerometer based devices the device has to be kept perfectly still, preferably a holder stuck to the car otherwise it wont be at all accurate.

Edited by FrangaR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319226-pocket-dyno/#findComment-5214667
Share on other sites

mate had one on his phone, so while taking his car for a drive he tells me to stop and do a run (he doesnt have a licence so i drive his car). apparently a VLT with gt35r/r33 5 speed/nistune on ET streets takes 20+ secs to cover 400m... shit we got some speed up lol **moderator approved and sanctioned racetrack of course**

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319226-pocket-dyno/#findComment-5214829
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...