Jump to content
SAU Community

Cheapest Programmable Ecu Option For R32?

stimps

By stimps,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

stimps Collaborator

stimps

Posted
Posted

Just wondering what is the cheapest way to "get inside" the management system of an R32?

I just want to change the fuel and ignition maps a little to get it runnign sweeter. Mine is over fueling a bit even tho my Oxy sensor is new, and I think the igntion timing could be better.

Apexi fc? or something else??

has anyone tried one of those kits from jaycar that are meant to adjust the ecu's closed loop mixtures?

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

+1 for nistune. will get you there for about half the cost of a pfc. should be under $1000 installed and tuned.

also the oxygen sensor won't solve any over fueling issues you are having when you floor it. they are only designed to help with fuel economy at light throttle applications. once you floor it the ecu ignores it.

if you don't know what you are doing i strongly advise to not try to tune an ecu by yourself as you can have some pretty serious effect on the car and not only end up with less power but also possibly end up damaging the engine.

stimps Collaborator

stimps

Posted
  • Author
Posted
+1 for second hand PFC, mine should be coming up shortly for sale.

Id be very interested in that! Let me know:)

How do they reprogramme the standard ECU? Do they take out a eprom and put it in a eprom reprogrammer? or do they have a way of connecting a laptop up to the standard ecu and changing the values on the fly?

stimps Collaborator

stimps

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
www.nistune.com

Yeah i was looking at that a while ago, and read the whole website this morning. Think ill order one, as I dont think ill be able to refrain from biulding up the engine in this car in the future anyway haha

Do i have to buy a consult cable?

Edited by stimps
Dioscorides Rookie

Dioscorides

Posted
Posted

Nistune will definitely be the cheapest option and probably the best for what you need. If you are thinking about modding your car later on down the track than maybe go for a second hand Power FC unit but it will be would be more expensive.

Dioscorides Rookie

Dioscorides

Posted
Posted

The jaycar kits are decent - we have used them on cheap old cars to good effect and because they are pretty cheap you might want to try it out and see if you get the results you are looking for from it. But I would probably stick with the nistune for the safer alternative.

stimps Collaborator

stimps

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The jaycar kits are decent - we have used them on cheap old cars to good effect and because they are pretty cheap you might want to try it out and see if you get the results you are looking for from it. But I would probably stick with the nistune for the safer alternative.

can you tell me a little more about the jaycar one? does it actually take over control of the injectors? or modify the incoming signals? how is it programmed? can mixtures be changed while your driving? or is it simply a program and go arrangement?

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

i think the jaycar systems are just a signal bender. they alter the signal coming in from the AFM to trick the ecu into thinking that less air is entering the engine so it puts in less fuel. the downside is that you can't independantly alter the timing or the fuel at different revs or throttle loads. they are ok as a cheap basic alternative, but won't give you the gains of a fully programable ecu

BeEnAr Experienced

BeEnAr

Posted
Posted

+1 for NIStune. Do it! Best money you'll spend on your 32. Consult cable is good if you get the software as you can log and bring up digital dashboard with just about every gauge you can think of, even injector duty cycle. Plus you can then run it like a diag PC and knock out cylinders for testing and get ECU error codes etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...