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Removing Crank Pulley Bolt (27mm)

rich81

By rich81,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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rich81 Explorer

rich81

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Hey guys,

Still tearing down this RB25DET I picked up this week. My next challenge: removing the crank pulley. There's no flywheel on the motor so I can't really shove anything thru the ring gear to hold the crank in place.

So my questions.....

a) what's the thread diameter of the studs that mount the flywheel to the crank? in case I need to frankenstein something up to keep it steady.

b) Am I missing anything with removing that 27mm bolt, other than giving it a good smack with a hammer to crack the seal then just undoing it with the help of a breaker bar etc?

c) Anybody have an ingenious way of securing the other end of the crank, other than by my Frankenstein method above (metal bar with a few holes drilled in to secure it against the crank, then lock it against engine stand)

Thanks guys.

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rich81 Explorer

rich81

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be careful man or you could damage the seal behind the crank.

put the flywheel on then use the bolts where the clutch attaches to the flywheel to tie some shit to the engine with

then yea breaker bar..

There's the problem tho - I don't have a flywheel, at all.

Thanks for the warning about the crank seal.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

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*Might* get access to one of those - would it be enough by itself to just crack the bolt straight off? I.e. does an air-powered tool deliver enough force to just break the bolt without needing to secure the other end etc?

yep...did it twice yesterday with RB26 engines...they were 350ft/lb tensioned. I do have a good rattle gun though but most reasonable quality ones should be enough for a 25.

rich81 Explorer

rich81

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The engine should provide enough resistance for the impact of the gun to loosen the bolt.

Thanks, THAT'S what I was trying to say :-)

OK, well the missus' old man has an air compressor, so I guess I need to hit up Kennard's for a rattle gun.... I wonder if they hire them out?

Thanks for the advice guys.

rich81 Explorer

rich81

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If no rattle gun, take the sump off and use rag covered spanner or such to wedge between the crank and block. (use a counterweight)

Great idea - I have a Bag O' Rags and a big-ass spanner. I'll try that before going for a rattle gun - I'll set the wrench up and smack it with my breaker bar.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

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If no rattle gun, take the sump off and use rag covered spanner or such to wedge between the crank and block. (use a counterweight)

ahh yes...before i had a rattler i used the wooden handle of an engineers hammer to wedge the counterweight.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

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yeah wood is the go try not to use anything thats hardened just in case it slips and centre punches something useful :P

the handle of the hammer i mentioned looks like a crocodile has been munching on it...lol

rich81 Explorer

rich81

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the handle of the hammer i mentioned looks like a crocodile has been munching on it...lol

I got the bastard off.

I wedged a piece of wood between the girdle and one of the rod caps at the point where the rod has minimum clearance from the girdle. Then with the timing belt still in place, I was able to undo the intake cam gear bolt and then the crank bolt with surprisingly little force... they didn't just come right off, but instead of the epic battle I was prepared for, I just had to use a measured amount of force with the breaker bar until they came free. Then used a pulley puller to get the harmonic balancer off, and that was that. It's amazing how easy it can be with the right tools (and good advice!). Thanks guys.

Head came off tonight, tomorrow I break apart the bottom end and see what the bearings look like.... :blush:

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