Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With everyone turning up the wick recently in the NSW Sprint Championships, and with Martin at Willall Racing having success himself with E85 in his GTR, it was a logical choice for more performance.

My local mechanics (Russo Performance) installed higher capacity fuel pumps (GSS342's) and a set of 950cc Deatschwerks injectors. Everything was plug and play, including the tune that Martin emailed me just a couple of days ago. All ftted and tuned, off to Mainline for a dyno run or three to check it all came together well; see dyno sheet below.

So VERY happy to pick up 45awkw as promised. Driven in anger it turns all four wheels on the street it's insane!! To me the best thing is the driveability - it's 100% unaffected when you are just cruising around, it's impossible to tell. That is a massive plus.

TRACK RESULTS: straight out of the box yesterday we smashed the old record on the 3rd lap of the first session (1:40.1). The car setup and trim was exactly the same as last time (actually we had NEW slicks last time, i think there will be more time with new slicks). So i am chuffed to pick up a second around eastern creek, and break the lap record too.

Thanks to Martin for the E85 tune, you know your stuff. And thanks to Russo Performance for fitting the hardware. Bring on superlap!

e85-dyno.jpg

I will get some video up of the run when i get time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320922-r35-e85-eastern-creek/
Share on other sites

Dunc, great news and well done.

I take it E85 is available at the pumps down there? how much can you get it for? anyone know if there is any difference to the E85 used around the country or does it all come from the same source and is it all rated the same octane? We have to import it in 200L drums up here so not cheap.

Dunc, great news and well done.

I take it E85 is available at the pumps down there? how much can you get it for? anyone know if there is any difference to the E85 used around the country or does it all come from the same source and is it all rated the same octane? We have to import it in 200L drums up here so not cheap.

Mark

We have it on pump (about 15min drive from my place) and it's $0.99c/litre. I have a few jerry cans which i will fill up. A full tank and some jerrys should last 2~3 weeks when not racing for me. I believe the stuff we get is from CSR. There are a few other pumps in NSW (wollongong i believe, and somewhere else) but too far away from me. We should see E85 pumps pop up all over the place in the next 6 to 12 months, with holden selling their e85 cars.

Edited by LSX-438
What is the consumption of E85 like? Do you use more litres per 100km than regular 98 RON petrol? Do you plan on using E85 all the time or just for race meets?

I havent measured it with any accuracy but i would say you use 25% more or thereabouts. I am not sure you can believe the consumption numbers on the display now either (Martin?) So anyway the fuel cost is roughly the same as 98 when you factor in extra consumption. I am running it full time for now, servo isnt too far away.

good result mate. should be hard to toss come SL this weekend. :thumbsup: 1:40s for such a well mannered and mostly standard road car is very impressive. 35 GTRs are far quicker than they should be. they truly are much more than the sum of their parts (or the sum of their stats). so close to running in the 30s which is just un heard of really for a big fat road car. at this pace it might be worth thinking about a roll cage. I know the 35 is a very safe car but the corner speeds it's capable of now and the straight line speed is just scary fast for a car without cage.

  • 1 month later...

Backing this up was a message from LSX-438 I just got on the phone

On stock Bridgestones tyres and full weight it just ran 10.8 @ 132mph through the traps at WSID. Thats very similar pace to Whicups run in the 888 Ford at Willowbank :(

Edited by Martin Donnon
Backing this up was a message from LSX-438 I just got on the phone

On stock Bridgestones tyres and full weight it just ran 10.8 @ 132mph through the traps at WSID. Thats very similar pace to Whicups run in the 888 Ford at Willowbank :(

. . . . That is a mad time on those tyres!

Well tuned and well driven! . . . Good job by all concerned

Correction - 10.73 and hes been given the boot :blush:

No cage, no race...

Sensational.

Thanks for the catback and tune Martin; 10.73 @ 132mph, 20" Bridgestones, full interior, we weighed the car at track (1715kg) + 80kg driver.

Got booted after first warning, Would love to have tried with lighter 18's i reckon there's a couple of tenths there easy. Race seats and another tenth or two... hmmm.

Pics and vids to come.

thanks again Martin :happy:

E85 is the bomb! I have not got around to tuning my R35 for it yet, but had

my R33 set up for it a few years ago & is a brilliant modification.

Made the car quieter, smoother, & more powerful. Is definitely the way to go

for the street/track road going weapon.

Well done LSX. Welcome to the 10 sec club. Back in the day I used to run flat

10 at the same mph (in an old holden!) so goes to show the top end power of these

new cars(& they turn corners & stop too!)

Keep up the good work - great to see you out there having so much fun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...