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d-jetro will run map sensor but you have to use the GTR one so u lose vct and its a bit of a pain and not really worth it unless your going for big power

U can tune out the effects of atmo bov by altering the map yes.... but put a plumback on, there way less hassle. If your sick of the stock plumback theres quite a few aftermarket plumbacks

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The D-Jetro versions tune using MAP, but are more expensive than the standard Power FC.

Just use a plumb-back with a pod filter, will still give you something of an atmospheric sound.

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If it came with a jap tune id get it re-tuned asap

Japs run much nicer fuel then us so the tune will probably be fairly average on Aus fuel

You can get the BOV to work properly with the power FC so if thats easier and your happy with it should all be good. Might just be a bit of fiddling around for the tuner at idle and low revs but no dramas really

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There is no real way to satisfactorly tune a power fc or any other AFM ecu with an atmo BOV, the BOV just adds way too many variables into the metering equation. too tight and the reversion effects the afm, too loose and they bleed boost which effects mixtures.

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ok, thanks for the info. I might go with an aftermarket plumb back if this doesnt work out for me.

The jap tune might also explain why the engine light comes on at full throttle and boost around 6k rpm. Got a retune booked for thursday.

Edited by ZXY
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a good tuner can tune out the stalling effects from an atmo bov in either ljetro (airflow meter) or djetro (map sensor) for any given ecu if they know what they are doing, the powerfc is the same

its a bandaid fix, but it's certainly something the tuner can do (with experience)

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a good tuner can tune out the stalling effects from an atmo bov in either ljetro (airflow meter) or djetro (map sensor) for any given ecu if they know what they are doing, the powerfc is the same

its a bandaid fix, but it's certainly something the tuner can do (with experience)

im not getting any stalling effects at all, but i notice its running rich from soot on my back bumper. and i have engine light coming on near redline which is probably due to bad tune.

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the engine light is most likely the knock warning. by default it flashes the engine light when theres any knock over 60. do you have a hand controller?

best to keep it under 5-6k if its flashing above that, until its tuned

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the engine light is most likely the knock warning. by default it flashes the engine light when theres any knock over 60. do you have a hand controller?

best to keep it under 5-6k if its flashing above that, until its tuned

yes i have a hand controller. I will check out the knocking when i get home on wednesday. The car wont be driven until it is tuned.

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RTFM.

Paul gave you good advice. why don't you do what he says?

you are right, its not knocking...

at normal driving 7 knocking

at 0.71 bar rpm 4k 7 knocking

0.8 bar 6k rpm 15 knocking

30 knocking max achieved.

has to be something else...any ideas?

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:D

for those who cant be bothered reading

the engine check light comes on and flashes differently for the following reasons

a sensor out of range or failed - ie water temp sensor, airflow meter, tps - which ever is dead will be highlighted in ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK on the hand controller

injectors reaching 98%

knock exceeding a level of 60

airflow meter reaching 5v

these are defaults on the powerfc and you can change the sequence flash in datalgot, and you can enable/disable the flash on the hand controller via ETC, FUNCTION SELECT

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