Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey my 33 is running 12 psi through stock turbo a front mount and cat back zorst will a split dump pipe open it up much. ????

my mechanic said the stock one is ever so restrictive. wat sort of gains am i looking at the one im looking at is the just jap stainless split dump

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321154-stock-dump-pipe/
Share on other sites

Hey man yeah the stock one is VERY restrictive. As is all stock exhaust work.

I'm not a fan of split dumps much, not many people I speak to are, a lot of people have boost issues, and they aren't that much different (power wise) from a bell mouth. A good bell mouth works well and is great to free up a few horses. You'll notice a BIG different with a catback already and 12psi.

Make sure you get an aftermarket dump AND front pipe, with a good metal cat, otherwise you're shooting yourself in the foot, cos the stock front pipe and cat is very restrictive also.

Happy exhaust-ing!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321154-stock-dump-pipe/#findComment-5240721
Share on other sites

nah man its hot . i want one . where abouts u situated ???nsw???
would have cost a bit to convert aye

haha cheers, Yeah it cost a lot. all custom work, pushing 10k now including the wheels, went for everything top quality, braided lines, standalone, garrett GT turbo etc... I'm in Perth though. lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321154-stock-dump-pipe/#findComment-5240808
Share on other sites

Interesting reading what you guys think this side of the world

RSP http://www.risingsunperformance.co.uk/shop/index.php a very well know tuning company in England actually recommend you keep the stock down pipe as it is very well designed most after market down pipes could not gain any improvements over stock when tested. Also most of the aftermarket elbows catch the turbo penny and cause overboosting. RSP recommends using the standard elbow, i no people Running stage 3.5 turbo with 1.4bar of boost with no probs at all. No spikes either.

Edited by jjskyline79
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321154-stock-dump-pipe/#findComment-5241036
Share on other sites

Interesting reading what you guys think this side of the world

RSP http://www.risingsunperformance.co.uk/shop/index.php a very well know tuning company in England actually recommend you keep the stock down pipe as it is very well designed most after market down pipes could not gain any improvements over stock when tested. Also most of the aftermarket elbows catch the turbo penny and cause overboosting. RSP recommends using the standard elbow, i no people Running stage 3.5 turbo with 1.4bar of boost with no probs at all. No spikes either.

have you actually seen a stock dump? and do you have even a basic understanding of how air flow and turbulence works?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321154-stock-dump-pipe/#findComment-5241235
Share on other sites

Interesting reading what you guys think this side of the world

RSP http://www.risingsunperformance.co.uk/shop/index.php a very well know tuning company in England actually recommend you keep the stock down pipe as it is very well designed most after market down pipes could not gain any improvements over stock when tested. Also most of the aftermarket elbows catch the turbo penny and cause overboosting. RSP recommends using the standard elbow, i no people Running stage 3.5 turbo with 1.4bar of boost with no probs at all. No spikes either.

are you sure you arent thinking of the GTR dumps? the gtst one isnt anything flash.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321154-stock-dump-pipe/#findComment-5241279
Share on other sites

Interesting reading what you guys think this side of the world

RSP http://www.risingsunperformance.co.uk/shop/index.php a very well know tuning company in England actually recommend you keep the stock down pipe as it is very well designed most after market down pipes could not gain any improvements over stock when tested. Also most of the aftermarket elbows catch the turbo penny and cause overboosting. RSP recommends using the standard elbow, i no people Running stage 3.5 turbo with 1.4bar of boost with no probs at all. No spikes either.

Interesting how you claim that a ~2" press bent pipe flows more air and causes less back pressure than a 3"+ bellmouth mandrel bent dump pipe at any given boost level and flow rate. This completely undermines my understanding of fluid dynamics regarding turbine flow and back pressure. Also we're not talking about the compressor elbow here at all, that is a completely different area of engine tuning. BTW, what the f**k is a "stage 3.5" turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321154-stock-dump-pipe/#findComment-5241297
Share on other sites

it's super leet turbo, you wouldn't know you're probably running stage 1 :P

anyway, he's probably mixed up with the GTR dumps, I was looking at doing a full exhaust but most people told me the stock dump pipes on the 34 GTR are quite good and don't need to be changed. apparently they are better flowing than the stock 32 and 33 GTR dumps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321154-stock-dump-pipe/#findComment-5241303
Share on other sites

Love the way most of you think its me me me Claiming blar blar blar

I havent got a clue tbh and it was the R33 GTR by the way sorry.

AS SAID AND I WISH PEOPLE WOULD READ IT BEFORE BUT IT WAS RSP THAT HAD DONE THE TESTS NOTHING TO DO WITH ME AND ONLY PASSING ON INFORMATION.

If you want to find out more contact them simplez

Is that clear enough for you this time wink

Thank you

Edited by jjskyline79
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321154-stock-dump-pipe/#findComment-5241678
Share on other sites

I thought I'd add my 2c.

I have had one of the old Batmbl split dump/front pipes on my 33 for a few years and when the turbo was stock I never had any boost issues or anything.......but, once I had my turbo highflowed I have had boost control problems with spiking and the highflow kind of hiccups and has a little stutter high up in the rev range.

My tuner (unigroup) say that this is caused by the split dump being made for the standard turbo so when the rear housing gets machined out a bit for the bigger impeller thingys (very technical speak..haha) the "hole" in the split dump is actually a little smaller than the hole in the exhaust housing which in turn creates enough turbulence to create small boost controll issues.

If someone with a better understanding of turbo flow etc can explain this in a better way please do.

I hpe this makes sense, I think you'll know what I mean though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321154-stock-dump-pipe/#findComment-5241732
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...