Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so was stuck it traffic tonight and getting annoyed... finally got some open road and give it a bootfull in 1st gear...

all of sudden I hear a small bang and see black smoke in the rear view mirror...

then there is no boost... the car spools from negative to zero... and nothing from there...

it drives fine if u dont hit boost... idles fine... no smoke or anything...

and im pretty sure the exhaust note has changed... almost like there is something stuck in the cat (or it could just be my imagination)....

so one of the turbos has let go yeh?

i'm almost certain its the turbos from reading what others have experienced...

checked for leaks in cooler piping... seems all fine...

car is pretty much standard... running cat back exhaust... and 15psi actuators (came with the car! should have taken them off :@)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322435-no-boost-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

Yep, bye bye ceramic turbine wheel!

Hopefully the bores are not damaged from ceramic dust. I've seen first hand what can happen to the bores.

I've got some new 2860-9's to replace the stockers on mine. Not gonna take any chances!

Good luck!

so what do you guys think of the following idea:

I grab some 2860 - 5s and whack em in... was planning to get those all along... might as well upgrade now

now the car is completely standard... doesnt even have a full turbo back exhaust yet... so I'm not sure how the Garretts will work on the standard car...

will probably have to run like 5psi until I get all the supporting mods (PFC, exhaust, injectors, tune etc etc)...

any thoughts on how much boost should be run in this sort of situation...

what he means by the dust is the tiny particles from ur ceramic exhaust wheel(s) when it pretty much explodes.. get reverted back into the engine if u come off throttle and do damage, if the car is fine atm, dont be worried..... just yet ;)

sounds like the exact same thing that happened to me,

put foot down

boosted up

BANG!!

black smoke out the rear (lots of it!!)

drove like a n/a car not building any boost.

replace the turbos and hope that there was no damage to engine, i was unlucky enough to replace the turbos after they blew then the front conrod bearing went so i had to get a full rebuild a week after the new turbos were installed.

good luck mate,

i went the 2860-5's, they're a bit laggy, but now with the boost up to 19psi it really does pull hard all the way to 320rwkw.

Drop the front of the cat and see if its looks like this; that's bits of ceramic turbine.

med_gallery_15274_3064_13488.jpg

What's your power goal? -7s or -9s are probably a better choice than -5s unless you're going to rebuild the motor and go for something like 400kws...

Too bad theres no smoke. Mine sort of have the same thing happened only that the bang was THAT loud and was blowing black smoke. Found out that the intercooler pipe (dont know if its the term for it but thats the black bit connected to the "twin turbo" pipe) was loose and came off. Tighten it and no issues after that.

how about you check all of your intercooler hoses first mate, particularly the bottom driver side one and the top passenger side one (inside the front wheel arch)

if your car is stock standard I doubt it is a turbo

Too bad theres no smoke. Mine sort of have the same thing happened only that the bang was THAT loud and was blowing black smoke. Found out that the intercooler pipe (dont know if its the term for it but thats the black bit connected to the "twin turbo" pipe) was loose and came off. Tighten it and no issues after that.

Check these first intercooler piping if all good, take the cat out. Do you still have oil pressure? (if so, re-check the hoses).

It happened to me a month ago (was expensive trip home by tow truck!) the culprit was the clamp that hold hose was broken, passenger side near the chassis rail - common problem.

My goal is 320awkw...

from reading the RB26 dyno thread... it seems like some ppl were falling short of that power with the -7s... will do some further research before buying tho

I will have another look at the piping tomorrow... had a look last night... was dark so may have missed something...

but from what I have read it seems like if a pipe has come loose... you still get some smoke when driving afterwards...

I'd rather preprare myself for the worse and either be relieved when I hear it was just a pipe or not be surprised when I eventually do get confirmation that it was the turbo...

just hope these bores are still ok... car seems to drive fine (just without boost) if thats any indication...

BLARDI 15psi ACTUATORS!! was planning on taking them off this weekend too :(

I'd be going with -5's for 320-330 on stock internals... You'll make the power easier- thus keeping your internals together longer.

OR Have a look at Trust T517Z 8cm's... I prefer them to Garetts.... Especially now that Garett/Honeywell have started cheaping out on they're production quality and standards...

Port match the stock exh manifolds and fitt quality dump pipes while your at it.

J.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...