Jump to content
SAU Community

Garrett Gt2860 -9s

usmair

By usmair,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 372
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

usmair
usmair

yeh most of us arent intending on going that crazy... besides the standard stuff... i'm getting cam gears to help with lag... thats about it...

sultanaz
sultanaz

I've got a r32 gtr 1994 I've got a ill list going of stuff on order + stuff I have already on the side HKS GT-SS + hks actuators , hks dumps , hks 2.5" splits to a true 3" back plus 100cell Haltec

Posted Images

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

oops, sorry, I knew that :S. Dunno why I had 350 in my head. Maybe I was dreaming about e85 again

All good buddy. Had a customer ask for 350kw out of -7's today. I have never actually heard of them making that sort of power. 330 is even up there. Maybe with cams

SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted

nah 330 for -9's. :)

300 for -7's

Lol, he's name wasnt michael was it?!

On another note, whinny got a 32 GTR on saturday.

lol not me buddy :P ive already got 330kw aiming for more shortly haha

my last gtr made 296kw @ 19psi with -7's

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

My mistake :P

Wanna sell me your 3.5" front pipe lol

Cant you get BSA or another local fabricator to fab one? I guess you will need a new cat too, if you want to run one.

I would help if you were down here, I always wanted to make a jig for GTR front pipes but I have never been asked to make one. I guess there are too many brand name pipes getting around.

nomnomv8 Rising Star

nomnomv8

Posted
Posted

Just my 2c on this entire -9 vs -5 topic having been in cars with both setups i can safely say -9's will get boring rather quickly. For a car that is driven 1-2x a week i cant see why you wouldnt go the bigger power of the -5's.

All this lag stuff is nonsense too alot of guys in this thread are treating the -5's as if though their some t51r sized monsters, realistically the lag is not too bad at all. Going 60-70kmh in 4th and drop it down to 2nd. The difference in the pull of the -5's is whats sold me.

If your using your GTR for twisties where response is needed every week go the -9, for anything else -5's all day.

levinboy Grand Master

levinboy

Posted
Posted

Just my 2c on this entire -9 vs -5 topic having been in cars with both setups i can safely say -9's will get boring rather quickly. For a car that is driven 1-2x a week i cant see why you wouldnt go the bigger power of the -5's.

All this lag stuff is nonsense too alot of guys in this thread are treating the -5's as if though their some t51r sized monsters, realistically the lag is not too bad at all. Going 60-70kmh in 4th and drop it down to 2nd. The difference in the pull of the -5's is whats sold me.

If your using your GTR for twisties where response is needed every week go the -9, for anything else -5's all day.

I agree with this

If you are only driving the car on weekends go the -5s I say

As mine is daily driven the -9 was my best option for application

In the end the biggest question you need to ask is what are you going to use the car for?!?

sydking Veteran

sydking

Posted
Posted

I agree with this

If you are only driving the car on weekends go the -5s I say

As mine is daily driven the -9 was my best option for application

In the end the biggest question you need to ask is what are you going to use the car for?!?

I walk to work and have a daily for the run around stuff.

So this car will be a good weather Weekender ONLY. Also planned a few long trips to melb ect.

Which got me thinking, a smaller turbo such as the -9 would almost always be sitting on boost on the freeway would it not? Same as a -7

So something like a -5 would provide better economy for highway driving as the turbos is not constantly spooling.

Or am i misguided on this one?

Either way this will not be a daily driver, But then again I want good response through the twisties. Which im sure -5s can still provide. Just not as good at the -9s.

nomnomv8- your comment has again swayed me away from the -9’s. But I really haven’t made the comparisons like you having sat in both cars.

Still looking for a -5 set up to take a ride in.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Do you have an engine that will handle the -5's?

or are you going to a have a laggy 350rwks and hope and pray that everytime you hit the throttle bits of engine arent going to fly out the bonnet?

LOL @ engine on boost driving down the highway

does the car do it now? NO!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...