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R33 Stalling After Changing To Metal Induction

SargeRX8

By SargeRX8,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Well I bought a r33 metal intake pipe for my car. I bought it from a member here and he has already suggested some things to try which I will in the morning. Basically, I ripped out the rubber intake pipe and replaced it with an aluminum one. It has all the necessary ports for the BOV return and the oil air breather(which I had to block off due to using a oil catch can). I'm pretty sure everything is tight but now everytime I hit boost and clutch in the car will either struggle to stay alive or stall and there is a noticeable loss of power during power shifts.

Any ideas? I never had an issue with my stock pipe. If everything is tight, could I have damaged something? What are the possibilities and what should I be checking?

Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated.

P.s I am loving the new sound!

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

You are describing an idleing problem. Most likely related to the AAC-IAC valve also could be other sensor. Did you remove and wires when you did this? TPS or MAF sensor. Any of these could have the wire conectors not pluged in properly as i know the MAF one is very hard to push sometimes and mine clicks 2 times so its missleading, without the second click it runs ruff an stalls over 2000rpm.

Recomend

Taking all pipes/tubes off and looking for leaks and splits.

Clean all wires with a wire cleaner and then electrical conector aerosols.

Re tighten all your bolts and claps back togther double checking nothing is missed then make sure all electrical plugs are clicked in place.

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted
If I drive slow without out boosting the car will not stall. It idles fine but when off boost it dies. The only thing I unplugged was the z32 plug.

Yes just make sure the sensor plug is in all the way, if it is then make sure there is no leak from a hose.

Check these things first being free and the most obious. Remember always check the most stupid simple things first

snozzle Mentor

snozzle

Posted
Posted

ur problem is most probably reversion, air going back to afm from the turbo wen the throttle body closes and causing ecu to go spastic, afm has to be further away from the turbo, does it still have mesh on both sides?

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted

It sounds like the effect of not running a bov or the air not going back into the intake. Are you sure the reciculation pipe is on properly? I say this because you get the same stallig after boosting from running an atmo bov or blocking the bob completely

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

plumb back your breather line, get rid of that atmopsheric catch can setup OR block off your PCV from cam cover --> plenum...

you're getting ambient air which isn't being processed by the ECU

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted
plumb back your breather line, get rid of that atmopsheric catch can setup OR block off your PCV from cam cover --> plenum...

you're getting ambient air which isn't being processed by the ECU

All I did was remove the old rubber pipe and install a metal pipe. I had the catch can since I bought the car and I never had an issue. I was looking at the design of the old rubber pipe and the return line is very close to the turbo and also actually angled and pointing at the turbo. This new one is much further up, closer to the AFM and is pointing straight down into the pipe. I checked for leaks today, found none. I checked all my wiring, its all fine. The return for the BOV is a little after the bend in the pipe. Ill get a picture. Also the car is giving a loud pop now I think due to the extra fuel during boost release. I was told by CRD today that they can eliminate the problem by putting it on dyno and diagnosing the issue. It could cost up to 1k to fix the problem and do a full custom tune for my car.

Gotta be a cheaper option out there for now. Putting the rubber pipe back on is not an option. I might get the return line for the BOV modified to face the turbo or have it relocated closer to the turbo.

Would the afm being moved into the IC piping before the throttle body help this issue?

Crans Mentor

Crans

Posted
Posted

BOV return port being too close to the afm is probably causing the issue. get a new connector welded on close to the turbo and angled towards it or relocating the afm will also fix but will require a tune adjustment

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

yeah the MAF sensor is sending messages that dont add up to the ecu just because of that little bit of air passing through the sensor. Just like previous post, your probily going to have to move the hose further away from the MAF sensor.

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, As you can see I'm a Stag driver. RB25DET, like Series 2 R33, so it's the same engine, different boat.

It was stock except for BIG cannon.

Over the years (4) things have been done gradually.

First, two stage boost control.

Then 3" JJ Bellmouth Dump and Hi Flow X Force Cat, Red Line Oiled Panel Filter.

The cut out of corrugated input line.

3" Cat back, Hi Flow resonator and full 3" cannon and R34GTR side mount.

None of these mods created any problems.Still got only 9psi, but suspect the boost gauge connection leaked a bit.

Since Christmas I have fitted a Front Facing Plenum and a mid size cross flow fmic. Piping was all 60mm, 21/2", used std T/B and AFM, but fitted a pod.

First start up, it went, but AFM plug not in fully. OK after fixing. First on road, intercooler piping parted. Fix, second run

different part of IC pipe parted. It was boosting to 12/13 when hoses blew off. Its back in the garage to tweak a bit more. Runs rich as a Saudi Oil Baron's bank account.(I stole that from somewhere) Has a steady misfire right across the rev range to red line. I think the term is R&R.

With the FFP it is hard to get to the connections for the IAC/ACC wiring which I had lengthened to fit the new plenum.

But I did multi meter them to make sure they were OK. The BOV return and Cam cover return were piped back into the stock positions on the inflow pipe.

During current running tests the exhaust is black as. I am getting some condensation out of the exhaust which is a worry as I dont know if it is just high humidity and R&R that is producing the moisture or if there is a water leak across

the plenum.

My final, hopefully, problem is that, hot or cold, when the ignition is on but engine not running, a weird buzzing noise comes from "within" when the T/B is opened a bit, then cuts out when opened a bit more. I can't tell if it happens if the engine is running.

Basically I followed the ix9 procedure from this Forum which was pretty good. Stags are a bit different but I would do it again as a fun project. My son gave me the plenum for Christmas. Bloody S13 Drifters.LOL

I think its off with the plenum again ($98 for gasket) check the electrical connections for the valves and design a better

connection system. And maybe Nistune.

This is all a bit on and a bit off topic, but I think a lot of owners, me included, think you can just mod and mod and mod without other"MODS"

As is written heaps of places, Nissan"s ECUs are programmed to protect engines from meltdown during warranty period.

Hope you guys wont bag me for this. And I do have an R30, anS13 N/A, a Stagea 25G N/A, and my RS4. So Nissan Rules.

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted (edited)
plumb back your breather line, get rid of that atmopsheric catch can setup OR block off your PCV from cam cover --> plenum...

you're getting ambient air which isn't being processed by the ECU

x2

your pcv valve will be sucking air through both cam covers from the catch can and this air has not passed through your afm... extra air in the system not registered = stalling

Edited by Cerbera
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
x2

your pcv valve will be sucking air through both cam covers from the catch can and this air has not passed through your afm... extra air in the system not registered = stalling

On my set up one side of the cam cover goes into the plenum the other side goes to the intake after the AFM. So while neither side air flow goes through the AFM on recirculation the air has already gone through the AFM on the initial way in.

True?

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Its been blocked off. Note everything was 100% working perfectly before I installed the metal pipe. That is ALL i done to cause this. I need to have the bov return pipe blowing towards the turbo. One bit of returned air touching the maf will give the ecu a reading and in turn a squirt of petrol

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

After all my F&F*ing it was so simple. I had zip tied the hose from the BOV so tight the tube was blocked.No signal, boosted till hoses blew off. All fixed now. Touch wood.

Been interesting reading thru Skylines. Thank you.

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