Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cue roadtrip, we meet bright and early at local BP for snacks and air.

I put 34psi in, for good firmness on open road driving (19s with a 35 profile)

Mate pulls up (r33) and puts 45psi in his (18s with 35 profile)

So after much bickering I ended up putting 38psi in my car and hoping to god I didnt have explosions on the highway, and all the while he's convincing me to put more in

I mean, christ, I'm usually a 32psi kind of guy, are my tyres going to explode? How much do you guys pump in?

32 would be fine. If I have 5 people plus their luggage i might put 36 in the back.

When i first went on the track I put 45 psi in my street tyres but they were still not up to it so i went to semi slicks and then slicks.

So no they won't explode if you put 45 psi in but there is absolutely no point in doing so. You will just wear out the middle of the tread.

I run about 38 normally...on most road tyres it wil improve handling at the cost of comfort. I don't agree that it is enough pressure to wear out the inside of a tyre, mine wears pretty evenly.

I have run tyres up to 45psi but that is specific tyres on the race track. Too high for general road use to me.

Also check the sidewalls, the tyres will hav a maximum allowable pressure which is generally 45....

mine tyres rated to 40 or 45 psi.

on the old car which were rated to 34 usually ran 36, ride felt sooo much better and direct steering.

also better to be on the rating or slightly over inflated than under inflated, less chance of tyre blow out.

can't remember what profile the girl's are, but they're 19's and we run 40 psi, checked weekly. totally even tyre wear so far.

Edited by pyro-ns
Any idea what psi I should run? 225/30/20... Sorry for hijack!

i'd put in around 36-40psi. it really depends on how much harshness you can tolerate and how the rubber reacts to certain tyre pressures. all you can really do is monitor the tread wear and make sure that it's even on all fours. all other things being neutral (camber, castor, toe), too much pressure will result in a bald spot right in the middle of the tyre and too little will result in baldness on the outside edges of the tyre.

if you find that extra pressure makes the ride too harsh (unlikely), then take a couple psi out and see how that goes. or if you've got coilovers, turn the dampner a few clicks towards soft :D

Cue roadtrip, we meet bright and early at local BP for snacks and air.

I put 34psi in, for good firmness on open road driving (19s with a 35 profile)

Mate pulls up (r33) and puts 45psi in his (18s with 35 profile)

So after much bickering I ended up putting 38psi in my car and hoping to god I didnt have explosions on the highway, and all the while he's convincing me to put more in

I mean, christ, I'm usually a 32psi kind of guy, are my tyres going to explode? How much do you guys pump in?

What was his argument for putting 45psi in? I don't get why he would want 45psi on the street....more to the point why he would want it on the open road :D. I never put more than 36-38 psi in mine on the street...shit if i want more grip in the arse on the street I drop em down.

if you run a lot of stretch you need high pressures but i never go over 40

mine are normally 36-38 for better fuel consumption (plenty of grip with the awd)

and as jetwreck said, if you want more grip on the street you would drop them down a bit, you dont really need stiff sidewalls on the street but you need more straight line grip

I would be a little careful going over 40 psi on the open road due to higher running temps. Considering Chales Law of Thermodynamics (pressure is proportional to temperature in a given volume) if your tyre temps are likely to go up then you could easily end up with a tyre pressure approaching 50psi. Apart from the obvious lowering of grip, due to less sidewall deflection and reduced contact patch, the effects of a blowout will be much more pronounced. All that risk for a possible saving of 0.1% fuel mileage doesnt really add up IMO.

Try alternating the pressures fron to rear too - a difference of only 2psi can be felt quite easlily. If you want a little more direct feeling in the steering wheel while maintaining a rear grip bias, try going 2 psi higher on the front.

I would be a little careful going over 40 psi on the open road due to higher running temps. Considering Chales Law of Thermodynamics (pressure is proportional to temperature in a given volume) if your tyre temps are likely to go up then you could easily end up with a tyre pressure approaching 50psi. Apart from the obvious lowering of grip, due to less sidewall deflection and reduced contact patch, the effects of a blowout will be much more pronounced. All that risk for a possible saving of 0.1% fuel mileage doesnt really add up IMO.

Try alternating the pressures fron to rear too - a difference of only 2psi can be felt quite easlily. If you want a little more direct feeling in the steering wheel while maintaining a rear grip bias, try going 2 psi higher on the front.

is that isothermal, adiabatic or polytropic expansion? haha

just studying for my thermal eng. exam as we speak

i'll put my money on isothermal cause it is due to heat

isothermal expansion the temp stays the same (p1v1=p2v2)

i dont think it really matters

195/70's i'd go with something normal 32-34 maybe

its a pretty high profile tyre

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...