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Rb26 Block Vs Rb26 N1 Block

GTRAAH

By GTRAAH,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

WTF youre going to print this off and show it to an engine builder?

If your engine builder knows what hes doing hell know what needs to be done to achieve the power goal reliably without the help of randoms off the internet.

Speak to someone who builds these all the time. Its better than gathering parts willy nilly like youre doing.

Sorry to say its not just a matter of buying the nice parts, machining everything and assembly. I did that with my first engine. 8000kms then BANG.

Theres certain tricks to keep these things held together. My current engine has built by someone who knows their shit. 20000kms and no bang.

GTRAAH Experienced

GTRAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Wasnt going to show him the whole thred man loll just the shit i need to remember evry builder probably has there own way of thinking and i dont know many i dont want to go to one that charges me $20K for a job that only costs 8K

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

My bone stock rb26 with T517Z's and supporting mods made just shy of 400rwkw.... I drag raced (add 50hp of N20 for the track)- ran mid 10's for 2 seasons and daily drove/thrashed that combo for 2 years. The only reason it broke was my fault (too much boost- wrong fuel).

Don't get too carried away with numbers and parts. Find a good builder/tuner and trust they're advice.

Cheers

Justin

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

It all ready was.

What did the GT block set him back?

I wouldn't have thought that 1/2 grout filling a block for this power level was necessary.

$4000 i THINK it was... I have the reciept filed away. That was from Just Jap in early/mid 2006. I think they were pretty reluctant to let it go.

  • 4 weeks later...
T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

the metal is seasoned. years of heating and cooling makes the iron tougher.

bmw used and proved this with there m20 f1 turbo engines. all were 100,000 mile old blocks sourced from scrap yards because they would hold together alot longer than new m20 blocks.

basicly all the heat and vibration cycles relax and stress relieve the metal so it has a higher threshhold for stress fractures because it is efectivly "heat treated" over a long period of time.

most new truck blocks are left out in the weather for up to a year when they are made. hence the term "weatherd block"

im sure if someone got a brand new rb30 block it would not take as much abuse as a 200k old one from the wreckers.

  • 1 month later...
GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted (edited)
are u forgetting that n1 blocks are thinker?

I dont think the N1's are thicker! :D

Sleeve an N1 block with a 92mm sleeve and you still break through into the water galleries. From what I understand the N1 blocks are cast from steel with a higher nickel content. Its the improved alloy that makes them a stronger block. Thats it. Nickel has a higher atomic weight so an N1 block is heavier than a stock 05u block, but the thickness is the same. (not counting those rare early R32 blocks of couse that ive only heard about but never seen).

Partially grout filling a stock 05u block and then torque plate boring it to 86.5 would be my recommendation for a strong 2.6lt block. Its torque twisting the block that causes the cracking. Grout filling goes a long way to eliminating that problem.

I totally agree with TO4GTR about the use of old metal too. Age is 1/2 the reason why the old RB30 blocks hold up to power so well when used in hybrid engines. Consider the amount of KMs on the average RB30 thats been run in mums old R31 station wagon, or some old rusty patrol. Hundreds and hundreds of heat cycles to stress relieve the metal, as well as running with generally mineral based oils. Light pounding of moderate power level workhardening the surface and slowly carburizing the steel over time. Not to mention the factory nitriding of the cranks. Old steel sure is the best.

Edited by GTRNUR
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