Jump to content
SAU Community

Ajustable Actuators?

r33 v-spec

By r33 v-spec,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r33 v-spec Apprentice

r33 v-spec

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just putting in a set of GT-SS turbos on a GTR. Any advise on what the minimum psi the adjustable actuators can be set to and how do you know if they are set equal.

Looking at running a low boost setting of around 10 psi and a hight boost (via manual bleed valve at the moment) of 18psi.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324717-ajustable-actuators/
Share on other sites
singlecamcammed240 Apprentice

singlecamcammed240

Posted
Posted

the way i set mine with out actually driving the car was to use a vaccum/pressure pump with a pressure gauge. i just kept adjusting the linkage out untill it had the amount of preload needed to open at the amount of boost i wanted to run. this way is much easier than driving and adjusting repeatedly untill you get what you want.

lachlanw Veteran

lachlanw

Posted
Posted

the way i set mine with out actually driving the car was to use a vaccum/pressure pump with a pressure gauge. i just kept adjusting the linkage out untill it had the amount of preload needed to open at the amount of boost i wanted to run. this way is much easier than driving and adjusting repeatedly untill you get what you want."

um that will not work . the gates need to be fully open at the psi you want .

as hyper gear said . waste gate preload is not really the way to adjust overall boost pressure . it works to an extent but only for maybe up to 5 psi(roughly maybe more or less) over spring pressure as anymore than this and you are going to start limiting waste gate travel and will end up with boost creep(boost climbs with revs as gates cant flow enough)

yes running an ebc over waste gate spring pressure to achieve the same level of boost can provide faster spool up but in the real world you will probably find the difference is not worth it

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted
They would normally be set at 7psi. the average pre-load should have on the actautor is 3mms. You then need to use a boost controller to increase overall boost sittings.

What kind of advice is that? an adjustable actuator's preload should be set to a point where the boost curve just starts to spike...then backed off half to a full turn...then thats the optimum preload for the setup...then overall boost can be raised via a boost controller...you can't just say an average of 3mm...coming from someone who sells turbos i'd expect at least some accurate info...

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted
What kind of advice is that? an adjustable actuator's preload should be set to a point where the boost curve just starts to spike...then backed off half to a full turn...then thats the optimum preload for the setup...then overall boost can be raised via a boost controller...you can't just say an average of 3mm...coming from someone who sells turbos i'd expect at least some accurate info...

That point is precisely 3mms with .5 bar actuators. Try it your self if you don't believe it .

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted
I have GTSS's with the original HKS actuators, f*kn things run 0.5bar on mani pressure - must not all be 1bar...

Their adjustable range is stated as 0.8kg/cm2 - 1.6kg/cm2 - about 11psi to 22psi. Not sure why you are only getting half a bar - you may be right there might have been a different series.

So maybe set them to about the middle of their adjustability - and run them up on the dyno cautiously. I've never changed them on the vehicle before but can't be too hard to get to.... surely :P

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

It would be worth checking they're set the same by applying pressure to the common line at the boost controller and verifying they both open at exactly the same pressure before you re-install all the bits you've taken off to get at the adjustment.

lotsalag Contributor

lotsalag

Posted
Posted

I've noticed that new hks actuators often seem to be a bit weak, making it a soft coming onto boost. the supplied one with my gt-rs sucked at anything over 1 bar, changed actuator one week later. if u wanna run decent boost ie 15+ psi maybe get stiffer/higher rated ones.

1 bar on gt-ss's is barely getting out of bed :D

  • 1 month later...
R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted
I have GTSS's with the original HKS actuators, f*kn things run 0.5bar on mani pressure - must not all be 1bar...
Their adjustable range is stated as 0.8kg/cm2 - 1.6kg/cm2 - about 11psi to 22psi. Not sure why you are only getting half a bar - you may be right there might have been a different series.

So maybe set them to about the middle of their adjustability - and run them up on the dyno cautiously. I've never changed them on the vehicle before but can't be too hard to get to.... surely :)

umm mine are the 0.5bar variety as well although im looking at running them at 18psi or so.. not sure if it allows that much adjustment but whats the best way to set em while in place.. adjust both and check with a pressure gauge when both start to open??

  • 2 weeks later...
R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted
Their adjustable range is stated as 0.8kg/cm2 - 1.6kg/cm2 - about 11psi to 22psi. Not sure why you are only getting half a bar - you may be right there might have been a different series.

So maybe set them to about the middle of their adjustability - and run them up on the dyno cautiously. I've never changed them on the vehicle before but can't be too hard to get to.... surely :/

HKS site states 78.5～108kPa(0.8～1.1kgf/cm2) for the GTR - 1430-RN001 which would mean 11psi to 15.6psi

should i have boost drop issues even with these heavy duty actuators or should i be looking else??

air leaks test done (intake manifold gasket replaced) and boost controller by gizzmo ms-ibc

post-40640-1280380092_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • hardsteppa
      Hi everyone.

      By hardsteppa · Posted

      Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...