Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i have an r34 GTT, and about an hour ago, i was braking, and the car really felt like it was shaking. i took my hands off the wheel doing about 60 and tried again, and the wheel was shaking like crazy. When i rolling about 20, slow down then jump on the pedal, the sound it makes is like my front bumper is scraping the ground, which i know for a fact is not.

i have checked the front and back pads, both fine, checked brake fluid, fine. checked my abs fuses, both fine.

Anyone able to help me here as why its doing this, cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325422-car-shakes-when-i-brake/
Share on other sites

my brother in laws 32 did that it was something with the front suspension get it checked at pedders its like 29 bucks to check.. if it feels like the whole car is shaking then i think thats the prob.. hope this helps

took the wheel off, rotors look fine as a mate said aswell. He took it for a spin and obviously it didnt happen.

He said the fluid may have got so hot and boiled. Has this ever happened to anybody????

is it auto??

Our car used to do it,mainly when going down big hills, where brakes are working hard.

happens alot with autos,Falcodores owners are constantly changing discs but the Rotors arent actually warped, but residue from pads gets baked on to the rotors..You know when u sit at the lights with brakes on, pads are really hot..Apparently some good metallic pads and hard braking can clean it off, but i havent tried it...

Either way get them machined..

no need to take discs off, you can get them machined on car..Any brake place even kmart tyre an auto can do it ,about 110$

Edited by Arthur T3
brake and shake baby - had to be said

hahaha nice.

It has stopped the shaking now, well, the day after anyways, so now i dont know about the rotors anymore??

Its back to normal and i havnt changed anything.

is it auto??

Our car used to do it,mainly when going down big hills, where brakes are working hard.

happens alot with autos,Falcodores owners are constantly changing discs but the Rotors arent actually warped, but residue from pads gets baked on to the rotors..You know when u sit at the lights with brakes on, pads are really hot..Apparently some good metallic pads and hard braking can clean it off, but i havent tried it...

Either way get them machined..

no need to take discs off, you can get them machined on car..Any brake place even kmart tyre an auto can do it ,about 110$

Nah mate its a manual.

hahaha nice.

It has stopped the shaking now, well, the day after anyways, so now i dont know about the rotors anymore??

Its back to normal and i havnt changed anything.

My money would still be on rotors. Could have been glazed, but I would still say they are warped...

But also check your tyre pressures. Happened to me on the weekend, felt like something was very very wrong, like the wheels were about to fall off, steering wheel shaking violently, car wasn't handling properly... Checked the tyre pressures the next day, and they had dropped quite low. Pumped em up to 38psi and that fixed all the problems. I doubt you are experiencing the same thing because my problems weren't while I was braking, more while I was cornering. But worth a go anyway.

Edited by Hanaldo
Falcodores owners are constantly changing discs but the Rotors arent actually warped, but residue from pads gets baked on to the rotors..

That's actually the cause of 99.9% of shudder. It's called DTV (disc thickness variation) and is caused by cheap pads, and/or excessive float in wheel bearings... which leads to the pad material being laid down unevenly.

It's VERY VERY rare that rotors actually warp. It simply doesn't happen, even on race cars. Even rally car that get them glowing hot then go through water spashes don't 'warp' rotors. It doesn't happen. It will be DTV. Machining them will fix the problem, but it often doesn't curing the underlying problem.

Commodores are really bad for shudder, and it's always excessive float in the bearings, which starts the problem, then the pad material being laid down unevenly on the rotor because it's not rotating square finishes it....

Some light reading by car engineer legend Carrol Smith:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...