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Ld28 Crank To Make 3.1ltr

old dude

By old dude,
in Classics (1953-1988)

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old dude Enthusiast

old dude

Posted
Posted

Hi All

Been doing a lot of research on this but would like to know more has anyone done one here and turbo charged

it as well most of the stuff i have read is with triples.

Regards

Scott.

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Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

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Posted

There is much info on this topic, bottom line is that they go great as N/A (with tripples)

but once you put a turbo on it reliability goes out the window due to the bore thickness being reduced so much.

If you REALLY wanted to boost it you would need to sleeve the bores (meaning EXPENSIVE AS!)

there is a siamesed f54, and a non-siamesed f54, cant rememember which is better!

If your looking at doing this with the HR30, I'd suggest a L28 with some very decent add-ons. will get you over the 200rwkW mark if done correctly.

Head combination and camshaft is the key, as well as matching the turbo to the engine (not the other way round)

Keep an eye out for Adaptronic ECU, oz built and owned and is extremely good.

Contact Stewart Wilkins in sydneyor Randy at Nissco in Bayswater/Vic they know who does what

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Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Scott,

You PM'd me on this subject and as yet dont have the time to answer you.

If your not in a busting rush to do this, let me get back from Canberra in a week and I'll discuss it detail.

Bottom line is "IT ISN'T GOING TO BE CHEAP" and there is far better ways of going about it than building an L31. For starters, the LD28 crank is going to set you back a grand, plus machining. Forget about turbo unless your mad keen on splitting the block.

Cheers, D

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Blue Enthusiast

Blue

Posted
Posted
There is much info on this topic, bottom line is that they go great as N/A (with tripples)

but once you put a turbo on it reliability goes out the window due to the bore thickness being reduced so much.

If you REALLY wanted to boost it you would need to sleeve the bores (meaning EXPENSIVE AS!)

there is a siamesed f54, and a non-siamesed f54, cant rememember which is better!

If your looking at doing this with the HR30, I'd suggest a L28 with some very decent add-ons. will get you over the 200rwkW mark if done correctly.

Head combination and camshaft is the key, as well as matching the turbo to the engine (not the other way round)

Keep an eye out for Adaptronic ECU, oz built and owned and is extremely good.

Contact Stewart Wilkins in sydneyor Randy at Nissco in Bayswater/Vic they know who does what

The F54 was the good non siamesed one. Most, if not all of the other castings have some siamesing between bores.

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old dude Enthusiast

old dude

Posted
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Posted
There is much info on this topic, bottom line is that they go great as N/A (with tripples)

but once you put a turbo on it reliability goes out the window due to the bore thickness being reduced so much.

If you REALLY wanted to boost it you would need to sleeve the bores (meaning EXPENSIVE AS!)

there is a siamesed f54, and a non-siamesed f54, cant rememember which is better!

If your looking at doing this with the HR30, I'd suggest a L28 with some very decent add-ons. will get you over the 200rwkW mark if done correctly.

Head combination and camshaft is the key, as well as matching the turbo to the engine (not the other way round)

Keep an eye out for Adaptronic ECU, oz built and owned and is extremely good.

Contact Stewart Wilkins in sydneyor Randy at Nissco in Bayswater/Vic they know who does what

Thanks mmate

Do have a F54 block and N42 head also have been buying some other goodies i have a couple of mates in NZ and there's plenty of bits over there

just getting it here adds a little cost but our dollars better over theirs and a good mate there is in the Freight industry he gets it all collected through

work or he grabs it for me if not far then he'll get it shipped over here for me for mates rates as best he can.

And adds on and internals will be quality parts for sure you can count on that.

The cars in the shed in bits now so will start pics on the rebuild & Resto when time permits but will be a good one.

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old dude Enthusiast

old dude

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Scott,

You PM'd me on this subject and as yet dont have the time to answer you.

If your not in a busting rush to do this, let me get back from Canberra in a week and I'll discuss it detail.

Bottom line is "IT ISN'T GOING TO BE CHEAP" and there is far better ways of going about it than building an L31. For starters, the LD28 crank is going to set you back a grand, plus machining. Forget about turbo unless your mad keen on splitting the block.

Cheers, D

Hey D

No drama's when you have time and I know the Bottom line is been there plenty but it's tax time hahahah and i gotta spend.

Wouldn't be worth it if it was cheap don't expect it to be gotta be cheaper than 600+hp nascar engined sports sedan hey,enough

bragging and i know your not a 4door nut but someone has to be.Pm me when you have time and take it from there.

Re

Scott.

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Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

When I went down this path a couple of years ago, I found them for sale in NZ for as little as AU$120.00, but by the time it got to Australia it was over AU$1000.00 because it's heavier than 20kg and therefore NO post shop in NZ will accept it, no matter what the NZ Post web site says, the shops/outlets WILL NOT ACCEPT IT.

So! you have an alternative, ship it by AIR or SEA?

Air, it's got customs duty, insurance, minimum weight, terminal charges etc etc etc and as I said it's over AU$1000.00 by the time it gets here.

Sea, same sort of deal because you get charged a minimum of 1cu mtr in the container.

Scott, there are much easier ways of getting the torque & power this L31 can produce.

For starters, if your going to turbo it, you need an N42 block, not F54 as is perceived. You have to take this block 3.0mm o/size to 89mm and the F54 bores become far to thin and become porous, allowing coolant and oil to seep through the bore walls when boosted with as little as the factory 8psi.

I recon I'm going to get 500~600Nm torque from my 2818 motor (plus 1.0mm o/size to 87mm) and 200+ Killer Wasps at the wheels on less than 10psi.

Why would you want more than this?

Make it handle and stop and you have a potential GTR killer in a classic R30. In my opinion, the dollars are better spent on handling options, brakes & tyres to get it to the ground.

Cheers, D

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old dude Enthusiast

old dude

Posted
  • Author
Posted
When I went down this path a couple of years ago, I found them for sale in NZ for as little as AU$120.00, but by the time it got to Australia it was over AU$1000.00 because it's heavier than 20kg and therefore NO post shop in NZ will accept it, no matter what the NZ Post web site says, the shops/outlets WILL NOT ACCEPT IT.

So! you have an alternative, ship it by AIR or SEA?

Air, it's got customs duty, insurance, minimum weight, terminal charges etc etc etc and as I said it's over AU$1000.00 by the time it gets here.

Sea, same sort of deal because you get charged a minimum of 1cu mtr in the container.

Scott, there are much easier ways of getting the torque & power this L31 can produce.

For starters, if your going to turbo it, you need an N42 block, not F54 as is perceived. You have to take this block 3.0mm o/size to 89mm and the F54 bores become far to thin and become porous, allowing coolant and oil to seep through the bore walls when boosted with as little as the factory 8psi.

I recon I'm going to get 500~600Nm torque from my 2818 motor (plus 1.0mm o/size to 87mm) and 200+ Killer Wasps at the wheels on less than 10psi.

Why would you want more than this?

Make it handle and stop and you have a potential GTR killer in a classic R30. In my opinion, the dollars are better spent on handling options, brakes & tyres to get it to the ground.

Cheers, D

Thanks D

So much to learn about these old girls so the L31 set up would be saver with triples rather than turbo charged other than doing what MAG86

mentioned,sleaving it not really worth it as you can get some good Hp other ways ARGHHHH what to do.

O'k back to the drawing board.

Front end ? what are my choices in struts D R's would be compatible are 31's, s13.s? knowing know this is not going to be anything other than a club

car and $$$ no issues i really need to be pointed in the right directions weather i have to get parts from Japan,America i want to do it properly the 1st

any way thanks for all the info and keep it coming as i do want to build this into something with all the boxes ticked,

Re

Scott.

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Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
Thanks D

So much to learn about these old girls so the L31 set up would be saver with triples rather than turbo charged other than doing what MAG86

mentioned,sleaving it not really worth it as you can get some good Hp other ways ARGHHHH what to do.

O'k back to the drawing board.

Front end ? what are my choices in struts D R's would be compatible are 31's, s13.s? knowing know this is not going to be anything other than a club

car and $$$ no issues i really need to be pointed in the right directions weather i have to get parts from Japan,America i want to do it properly the 1st

any way thanks for all the info and keep it coming as i do want to build this into something with all the boxes ticked,

Re

Scott.

Scott,

I can get you a VT Commodore front set up for a few hundred dollars that fits the MR struts.

EFI not carbies is the only way to go these days, Webbers & Dellorto's do not pass current emissions laws.

MAG86 has lots of ideas, but his technical knowledge base on L series is limited.

Suspension can be sourced here in 99% of cases.

Talk to me via PM for further information.

Cheers, D

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