Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

There was abit of a carshow in Rocky on the weekend, with a dyno set up. So I put mine on for a run to check air fuel ratios, and here are the results.

1277106745.jpg

As you can see, run 1 made 341rwhp, a/f's were all fine.

Ran it up a second time, car was following pretty much the exact same line, went 337rwhp... but the a/f's went haywire. The operator wasn't keen to run it up again. His first thoughts were the lambda had fallen out of the exhaust. Apparently tho, this was not the case.

I'm pretty much wondering what you guys think. If it really leaned out that hard, surely it would start making more power (considering its on the rich side of things) before it leaned out wayyyyyy too much and started to detonate and lose power. The fact it follows the exact power of the first run kinda says to me its an error with the lambda, and not a problem with fuel delivery in my car.

Car has a walbro pump (i know i know), nismo 550's and a nismo FPR.

Surely a dying fuel pump would be more 'progressive' then the almost verticle climb of the a/f's on the second run? blocked injector?

Any ideas or comments would be great!

Edited by Granthem
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325708-massive-lean-out/
Share on other sites

your idea seems reasonable, such a drastic change in AFR

given its a dyno day and the sensor is moved around a lot, it might be a bit whacko or something

for such a dramatic change in AFR, i would have expected wonky power curve, detonation

wont always knock from that but i'd expect a decent loss in power at least. +1 for incorrect reading, only way to be sure tho is to check it a few times with another sensor

Edited by JonnoHR31
your idea seems reasonable, such a drastic change in AFR

given its a dyno day and the sensor is moved around a lot, it might be a bit whacko or something

for such a dramatic change in AFR, i would have expected wonky power curve, detonation

That's what I was expecting aswell.

Walbro pump.

Exactly what mine did around 260rwkw.

Was yours a "Mt Everest" like mine. I always pictured a more progressive leaning out when a pump slowly starts karking it?

wont always knock from that but i'd expect a decent loss in power at least. +1 for incorrect reading, only way to be sure tho is to check it a few times with another sensor

Hmmm yeh. There is another dyno in town, might be worth throwing it on theirs for a check up. They have always been ridicuously safe. I thought a pump would show on both runs, not just rear its ugly head on the second run... at least I'm hoping!

Check it on another dyno to make sure it is the car, if the A/F sensor is on its way out they default to 14.5:1 so it could be a failing A/F sensor, that curve is also very common in such a scenario.

Check it on another dyno to make sure it is the car, if the A/F sensor is on its way out they default to 14.5:1 so it could be a failing A/F sensor, that curve is also very common in such a scenario.

Very interesting Trent. Thank you very much! I'll look into another run on a different dyno

Haha yeh, I'll upload the graph with the boost curve tomorrow. Its on 14psi :)

Another question - Ramp Rate - how much does it affect things?

On the 3 times its been on a dyno, every operator has chosen a different ramp rate.

Godzilla - 100@150 = 337.1rwhp

Prodyno (first comp) - 100@140 = 337.7rwhp

Prodyno (most recent graph) - 100@200 = 341.1rwhp

Well its not going to be your O2 sensor because that has stuff all to do with the afrs at the top end. Have you at least got your Walbro wired for full voltage? Stick a fuel pressure guage in after the fpr and see what it reads at high revs next time you're on a dyno. (My tuner uses two O2 sensors - one in an extra boss on the downpipe and one in the tail pipe).

Out of curiousity could you post up the boost graph on the 14psi? Would be interested to see how it looks as mine really has trouble holding lower boost levels. Is yours just setup to 14psi from the adjustable actuator?

Edited by PM-R33

For it to have almost exactly the same power curve and the AFM to be all over the place, surely its the dyno not the car.

The power doesnt even change and seeing at A/F ratios have a HUGE impact on power the curve should have changed is some way.

Out of curiousity could you post up the boost graph on the 14psi? Would be interested to see how it looks as mine really has trouble holding lower boost levels. Is yours just setup to 14psi from the adjustable actuator?

Sure mate. I will post up the dyno with the boost graph. I have one from Godzilla and one from the other day. They didnt start the boost graph until it was already on boost so its just a flat-ish line.

Mine no longer uses the HKS actuator. It uses a garrett 14psi actuator, so it hold fairly nicely.

Well its not going to be your O2 sensor because that has stuff all to do with the afrs at the top end. Have you at least got your Walbro wired for full voltage? Stick a fuel pressure guage in after the fpr and see what it reads at high revs next time you're on a dyno. (My tuner uses two O2 sensors - one in an extra boss on the downpipe and one in the tail pipe).

I have a Greddy Fuel Pressure Gauge, reads around 3.5-3.6 bar at full noise (2 bar idle).

Unless its a track car, i would be leaning those out for sure

Its a street car... I wouldnt mind getting abit more HP out of it, and some more fuel economy :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...